A byproduct of arecanut processing, a dark syrup of a reddish-brown hue called chogaru, has garnered new interest for its potential as a natural dye. New research in the dye’s composition, viscosity and dyeing methods has allowed its use even in block printing, apart from colouring yarn and fabric.
This non-forest-based natural dye is inexpensive and eco-friendly. The use of chogaru can benefit thousands of arecanut growers in Karnataka, the top producing state in India. In 2020, the state produced about 77 per cent of the country’s share of the crop. About half of the produce in the state, close to 4.3 lakh tonnes, is harvested for red arecanut, the source of chogaru.
Colouring fabrics in different hues of brown, garnet, beige and onion pink, the natural dye has the potential to make its mark in the natural dye market. This market is anticipated to generate revenues of about $5 billion by 2024 globally, growing at a CAGR of about 11 per cent.
The University of Agricultural Sciences (UAS), Dharwad has been studying chogaru to increase its economic and commercial viability. "To standardise results, the components of the dye were broken down. We studied different thickening and binding agents and this has even presented the possibility of its use in block printing," said Jyothi Vastrad, Professor, Department of Textile and Apparel Designing, UAS.
Textile artisans like Sufian Khatri who sampled the dye are excited by the possibilities. "It performed fantastically. In block printing, it gives a nice chocolate brown. I am open to the avenues this dye opens up," said Khatri. Khatri is a 10th-generation ajrakh artisan from Gujarat. He recalls the use of arecanut dyes 50 years ago. "It fell into disuse because of market unavailability," he said.
Work has also been under way to reduce the use of water in the dyeing process. "We have conducted experiments with soft-flow dyeing machines. It gives an even finish to the garment. We also have worked to convert the product into a powder form to increase its shelf life and to make transport easier," said Periasamy S, CEO of the Atal Incubation Centre, Tiruppur.
The dye easily breaks down in landfills after a garment is discarded. "Non-natural dyes usually are toxic to the water and soil. There are studies to prove that the effluents during the dyeing process can be carcinogenic," said Jyothi.
An additional benefit is that the byproduct chogaru requires no additional input costs. It can easily provide an additional source of income to arecanut farmers, explains Shree Padre, a farmer and journalist. "Around one lakh litres of chogaru is produced in the state but it is underutilised," he said.
Charaka, a cooperative weaving society in Shivamogga, uses over 2,500 litres of chogaru to dye natural fabrics. "We pay approximately Rs 100 per litre," says Terence Peter, the administrator of the cooperative society.