If architectural splendour is what our State can be proud of, the credit invariably goes to the rulers of the mighty Hoysala dynasty, who take the lion’s share in contributing towards heritage structures.
And many of them were constructed to celebrate an important event like winning a battle. So it was in the late 12th century that such a temple was built in Amruthapura. Though the place lost its glory in course of time and has been reduced to an obscure village in present-day Chikmagalur district, the sculptural marvel there has stood the test of times.
Historically, during the reign of Hoysala king Veeraballala II the local chief by name Amrutha Dandanayaka was being troubled by the Gurjars constantly. The chief organised a regiment of valiant soldiers and fought a battle to win over them and end their menace once and for all. But the chief, the architect of the victory himself, had to succumb. The king ordained that a Shiva temple be built here to mark their victory and name it after the martyr. Thus the temple of Amrutheshwara came into being in 1196 AD.
The temple complex is on a sprawling green lawn encompassed by a wall with a series of circular designs. The name of the sculptor Mallithamma is also etched in old kannada, on one of the sculptures.
The main Shivalinga is a simple black round saligrama brought from Gandaki river in Nepal and has been installed in such a way that on Makara Sankranthi at sunrise the rays fall on the linga for 10 minutes. When the Mysore king Nalwadi Krishnaraja Wodeyar visited the temple about 200 years ago, a lamp was lit by him. As a mark of respect to him the lamp was never extinguished and care has been taken to ensure that it is always burning.
The outer walls of the temples sabhamantapa are the ones where intricate sculptures portray the epics vividly. The northern wall relates to the stories from birth of Krishna to Kamsavadha and Mahabharatha. The friezes include some outstanding work like the Kalinga Mardhana and Krishna stealing butter.
Getting there: Amruthapura is nine kms from Tarikere in Chikmagalur district and connected by moffusil buses. As you drive on BH Road towards the north, take a right turn five kilometers before Tarikere.