Inside one of the family temples in Bali.
PHOTO BY AUTHOR
The resplendence of the exteriors of temples in Bali is so impressive and the intricate decorations so exquisite that one might easily mistake them for a supreme pantheon. Bali is the land of grand temples, a heavenly paradise of devotion, and, of course, stunning beaches. On one of my jaunts to Bali, I had the fortune of stumbling upon the enthralling concept of family temples; an intriguing blend of Hinduism and Balinese culture. As I meandered through the avenues of Bali, I was astounded to discover that each and every house was home to a family temple. In a nutshell, these edifices were sheer works of art — almost as if they had been plucked straight out of a museum, they tantalised my imagination like no other.
The walls are washed in a kaleidoscope of vibrant colours, and the roofs feature intricate designs. Family temples are so beautiful that you'll have to summon all your strength to keep yourself from stepping inside and discovering more. To the locals, these family temples are not only places to respectfully worship the gods but also to pay tribute to their forefathers, which is why entry of outsiders is strictly forbidden. Yet I was fortunate enough to get a chance to speak with a local, who kindly obliged to let me see and learn about the significance of his family temple.
He expounded on the worth of the family temples, emphasising the reverence for ancestors and the almighty. "The family temple should always be situated in the Kaja-Kangin corner of the home, eastwards, aiming towards the sacred Gunung Agung Volcano." I discovered that, in Bali, the type of family temple depends on the social standing of the family — from the humble Pemerajan to the grandiose Sanggah. Far more than just a brick structure, the Balinese family temple is a place of reverence and a portal to the divine. Regardless of size, these temples are always located in a tranquil corner of the family's property.
A hallmark of traditions & Yagya
The family kneels in reverence, bowing their heads before the sacred Ida Sang Hyang Widhi and Bhatara Gods, as well as the Leluhurs, the Balinese translation of ancestors. Prayer and offerings are made daily to these sacred shrines; Pelinggih Ratu Ngurah, Kemulan Taksu, and Pelinggih Taksu are the mandated ones in every Bali family temple. No matter the size of the family, these temples are always kept in pristine condition. The revered temple of Kemulan Taksu is divided into three sections, each devoted to a holy deity, Lord Vishnu (left), Shiva (middle), and Brahma on the right.
This single-sectioned roofed shrine is known for its power to channel the energies of the deified ancestors. On the other side, the Pelinggih Ratu Ngurah is devoted to Ratu Ngurah, the Bhatara's amanuensis, who watches over human behaviour with a keen eye. Across from that is Pelinggih Taksu, which is dedicated to Taksu, the God of Talent. All three holy places are united under the powerful roof of Kemulan Taksu — a true temple of awe. The Balinese believe that it is Lord Taksu's blessing that will determine their success or failure. Upacara Yadnya, a holy sacrifice, is the traditional ritual that takes place inside the revered Balinese family temple. It is said that the term Yadnya has its origin in the Sanskrit word Yagya, meaning worship. In total, five separate forms of Yadnya are performed in Bali, in a bid to seek divine intervention. These ancient religious rituals are presented before Ida Sang Hyang
Widhi Wasa and are performed by the Rsi, to impart religious teachings, appease ancestral spirits with Pitra Yadnya, act in kindness towards humanity with Manusa Yadnya, and balance the forces of nature with Bhuta Yadnya. Additionally, Yadnyas conducted in everyday life are known as Yadnya Sesa or Mesaiban. For more special ceremonies such as marriages, temple anniversaries, and exorcisms, Upacara Yadnya is held within the family temple.
Prayer offerings
In much the same way that India has a plethora of different kinds of temple offerings, Bali also has a unique selection of its own. These charming little offerings are known as Canang Sari. The streets of Bali are filled with artful Canang offerings, made from coconut leaves and fragrant flowers, as well as burning incense. These offerings, which range from rice grains and cigarettes to banana leaves to large processions of food, echo the blend of Hinduism and Balinese culture. Women are the masterful artisans behind these prayer offerings, meticulously crafting Banten designs with love.
Creating these offerings is an art form that demands copious amounts of resources, energy, and time — a generous gift to the divine for the materials used and the care and effort put into it.
The Canang Sari is a Balinese offering of several items representing Hindu gods. White lime is for Shiva, red betel nut for Brahma, and green sirih for Vishnu, with four additional flowers for Iswara, Brahma, Mahadeva, and Vishnu. A small denomination banknote is added to illustrate the offering's selflessness. In Balinese culture, offerings must be made to Padma and Tugu statues in the northeast corner, Vishnu at the water-bore, Brahma in the kitchen, and two offerings for the lower spirits at the gate's Pengapit Lawang shrines. By honouring higher and lower spirits, households can maintain their positive energy and harmony. On full and new moon days, offerings are prepared with an air of solemnity.
The captivating commonality
Penunggun Karang, a sacred shrine, stands sentinel outside the temple, protecting the family, the temple, and the home from any unruly spirits. You must secure permission from the house owner if you wish to explore the family complex or the family temple, but even from the outside, the architecture will take your breath away. I was taken aback by the remarkable juxtaposition of simplicity and magnificence, holiness and mundanity. As I beheld the captivating commonality of family temples in Bali, I couldn't help but be in awe — I'm sure you will be too!