Patdev tigress’ son as seen at the Pench National Park in Madhya Pradesh.
Photo by Author
Many traverse the paths of a jungle. Some to renew their weary spirits, as suggested by Robert Louis Stevenson. Some to find their way into the universe, as per John Muir. And, some with a single-minded aim to spot the magnificent stripes in motion.
Falling into the last category, my casual nonchalance towards that enthusiastic Indian crested porcupine while on our way back from a night safari in the Rukhad zone came as a surprise to my fellow travellers. After having spotted six of the Royal Bengal Tiger descendants in the Turia core zone of Pench National Park just the other day, the heightened expectation had resulted in subsequent dejection after a tigerless safari in Rukhad — one of the buffer zones of Pench.
Prabhir Patil, a seasoned naturalist and guide at Pench, said that a porcupine sighting was rare. Yet, the rarity of it didn’t dawn on me till we were back at our jungle camp on the other side of Rukhad. Ketan and Xee, who manage it, could not contain their emotions. “That sighting is even rarer than a tiger’s,” they said in unison. Suddenly, that moment of seeing a prickle of porcupines during an on-foot night safari in Periyar Tiger Reserve a few years ago became all the more special.
What followed were the stories of the jungle, on a machaan under the cloudy sky — of power, loyalty, deceit, shrewdness, and I had a renewed appreciation for a ‘buffer zone’. For, only a few hours ago it had given me a blend of The Jungle Book and Malgudi Days. I could hear the latter’s music play in my mind as some cattle and bullock carts greeted us just as we entered the Rukhad safari zone. Interestingly, Pench was also the original setting of Rudyard Kipling’s most famous work. The legend has it that it was his father’s experiences and tales of Pench’s wilderness that inspired the book. The village of Seoni near Rukhad is popular as Mowgli’s village — in Kipling’s account, Seeonee is mentioned repeatedly.
The sounds and smells of the jungle had only been pronounced post a rain. The herd of seemingly forever angry bison, the galloping timid spotted deer, the steadfast swamp deer, and the fireflies made that silence amid the cacophony my own zen.
True to its name
Spanning over 120 sq km, Rukhad not only serves as a buffer zone to Pench, it is also the crucial corridor for tiger movement between the reserves of Kanha and Pench, allowing them an increased territory and more prey.
While a ‘core zone’ of a forest is the critical habitat for tigers and other wildlife, the buffer zone or area, true to its name, around or adjoining the core forest is where nature is conserved alongside a controlled and compatible use of resources by humans.
These buffer zones are of prime importance in not only controlling man-animal conflict but also in wildlife conservation as any natural or man-made negative impact gets managed here before it could affect the core.
They also help create a community-based conservation effort, as a large part of the buffer permit fees go to the villagers surrounding those areas.
However, the buffer areas are generally not frequented by tourists under the assumption of these not being part of the main park and thus having less animals or tigers. This is a reason why when the monsoon sets in and national parks in India shut down for a few months, the enthusiasm of a lot of wildlife lovers also takes a big dip. The main reason is that the core zones get closed. My tiger-chasing self also adhered to the idea. Not anymore. For, I know that these buffer zones, which remain open throughout, are the hidden jewels of the jungles. And, Tadoba put the final seal of approval on it.
Let there be calm
Unlike the tiger-sighting documenting board at the jungle camp in Pench that stoked envy, the one at Tadoba did not bother me much. The successful spotting at Pench aside, the jungle meant much more to me post-Rukhad.
While on our way from Moharli Gate, Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve, to Devada-Adegaon buffer zone, Nayan Mondhe, our naturalist for the safari, pointed at the tall grassy patches on both sides of the road. “Choti Madhu (a tigress of Tadoba) is keeping her cubs hidden nearby,” he said.
The buffer zones are important in the growth of the tiger population too as they work as safe shelters for the cubs. When a tigress gives birth, she often migrates from her territory to these areas to keep the little ones safe from other male tigers. The leaner population of wildlife is directly proportional to human presence in the buffer zone. So, our sole presence in the Devada-Adegaon zone for most of the time meant no interrupting voices were disturbing the jungle.
Be it the storks, herons, egrets, Pitta (Navrang), Indian Roller (Neelkanth) or the postcard-perfect grasslands scene at the backwaters of the Irai Dam, the calmness of buffer zones is a good balance to tiger-spotting anticipation of the core zones.
So, the next time you plan your safari to any national park, take at least a few drives in the buffer areas. Let go of the chase, take a break from eyes glued to the ground for pugmarks and ears reacting and deciphering every sound of birds and animals. Revelling merely in the stories of Bajirao, New Kuraigad, Sakata, Chota Matka, Shambhu, and Sonam, is also an experience and a learning unmatched.
Wildlife in India
There are 106 national parks in India covering an area of 44,402.95 sq km.
♦ There are 55 tiger reserves.
♦ A tiger reserve consists of a core area including parts of protected areas such as a national park or a wildlife sanctuary, and a buffer zone.
♦ In many of the reserves, buffer zones are larger than the core zones.
♦ Almost all the national parks close their doors during the monsoon (from June to September). While the core zones are closed during these months, the buffer zones are open for safaris throughout the year.
Dos and don’ts of
a jungle safari
♦ Avoid wearing bright colours as they distract animals. Go with greens, beige, and brown.
♦ Ditch that perfume or deo as animals have a strong sense of smell and these make them move away.
♦ Keep that camera flash and sound off.
♦ Have a light meal before the safari as the ride might get bumpy at places. Be prepared for sudden showers too.
Note: The Tadoba National Park does not allow using
mobile phones. DSLRs can be used for a fee of Rs 250.