A hidden gem in Hosaholalu

Scenes from the Ramayana and the Mahabharata come alive in the exquisitely carved sculptures at this Vaishnava temple, writes Jayanthi Chandrasekaran

River Hemavati. PHOTO BY AUTHOR

The name Hoysala is synonymous with Belur, Halebidu and Somanathapura where the celebrated temples stand as symbols of the glorious empire and Karnataka’s distinguished past. A lesser-known temple, but no way less in its splendour is Lakshminarayana temple of Hosaholalu, a precious jewel hidden in Krishnarajapet taluk of Mandya district. It has been assessed that the temple was built in the 13th century during the rule of King Vira Someshwara, based on the style of the sculptures and architecture that compares closely with the other Hoysala temples in the region.

The Lakshminarayana temple stands with its grandeur and serenity as a testament to the artistry of yore. Built with soapstone, the elevated structure rests on a star-shaped platform (a Hoysala signature) which serves as a circumambulation path, because in the inner shrine no such path is provided. The very first look of the intricately carved walls on the outside of the structure is at once mesmerising and awe-inspiring to the visitors. Although it is a ‘three shrined’ temple, only the central shrine exhibits a tower. The temple consists of two sets of projections overhanging the wall (eaves) and six horizontal mouldings at the base of the outer wall. The first moulding on the top depicts birds (hansa), second one makara (aquatic species), the third one illustrates the mythological and puranic stories, the fourth one contains leafy scrolls and the fifth and sixth mouldings are adorned by the procession of horses and elephants. Apart from the six layers, the brimmed rectilinear mouldings of the base are adorned with swans, elephants and leafy vines.

As one starts the pradakshina on the raised platform, the devotees are treated to rich carvings all around on the wall panels above the mouldings. Scenes from the Ramayana and the Mahabharata come alive in the exquisitely carved sculptures. As it is a Vaishnava temple several images of Vishnu with his consort and attendants and Vishnu standing upright holding in his four arms the conch, wheel, lotus and a mace can be seen on the wall panel facing every direction. Other exquisite sculptures include Narayana seated on the seven hooded serpent, Samudra Manthan (churning of ocean of milk), four-faced Brahma and Indra on his Airavata. The images of Shiva, Parvati and Ganesha are also spotted on the outer walls.

The inner mantapa of the temple is supported by four polished pillars which divide the space into nine bays and nine embellished ceilings. The central dome among other things depicts Sri Krishna dancing on the serpent (Kalinga Narthana). The whole structure is an engineering feat supported just by four pillars and has stood the test of time for eight centuries.

The Lakshminarayana temple is easily accessible by road. Hosaholalu is about 25 km from Melkote, 45 km from Mysuru, 60 km from Mandya, and 160 km from Bengaluru. Not far from the Hosaholalu village runs the Hemavati River hugging the lush greenery of the area and spills over a barrage creating a waterfall.