Alluring Armenia

As international travel slowly begins to re-emerge from the woodwork, Raul Dias throws the spotlight on Armenia — an exotic destination waiting to be discovered

The 7th-century Khor Virap monastery in the shadow of Mount Ararat, the peak on which Noah’s Ark is said to have landed during the Biblical flood

While the pandemic finally seems to be on the wane, it may very well be time to dust off those travel boots and put them back in action. This is as we seek out newer, more exotic destinations to visit. Places that are deliciously off-the-beaten-track. Offering newer, fresher perspectives on how we now see travel. Through the dual prism of serendipitous discoveries and rekindled wanderlust. And what better place than Armenia? Believed to be the oldest Christian country in the world, this former USSR republic is a fascinating country that has everything from Yerevan, its capital city brimming with urban wonders and unique cuisine to a countryside dotted with ancient Christian monasteries where time seems to stand still. Here are a few reasons why this hidden gem nestled in the South Caucasus region of Eurasia should feature prominently on your post-pandemic ‘Revenge Travel’ bucket list.

Capital gains

Just like our very own Jaipur, Yerevan is also known for its moniker of ‘the pink city’. This is due to the fact that several of its important buildings and monuments are built using the blush-hued volcanic stone called tuff. And speaking of important landmarks, you cannot get a more apt example than Republic Square in the heart of Yerevan. Formerly called Lenin Square during Armenia’s USSR days. The square is surrounded by historical buildings that include the Government House, the ministries of Foreign Affairs and Transport and Communications, the History Museum and the National Gallery. Outside the museum, grand fountains offer a stunning sound and light show between 9 pm and 11 pm.

Bits & bites

One of the country’s greatest passions is its cuisine which borrows a lot of dishes from its neighbouring countries like Georgia. Especially the khachapuri and the khinkali. While the former is an eye-shaped flatbread that is stuffed with cheese with an egg at its core, the latter is a meat-stuffed dumpling that’s steamed. But yet Armenian food manages to retain a flavour and charm of its own. Perhaps, the most famous food export of Armenia is the beloved lavash. This flatbread that is found everywhere is very simple to prepare. Using just three ingredients of wheat flour, salt and water and baked in an oven called a tonir that is very much like a South Asian tandoor oven. This bread forms the base of the ubiquitous and divine-tasting lahmajun or ‘Armenian pizza’ that’s topped with minced meat, garlic and sweet onions, sans any cheese. For those with a sweet tooth, gata is a must-try! This one is a flaky, multi-layered cake, each layer of which is saturated with melted butter and sugar. They are usually made into huge round disks, embellished with the luxurious, swirly alphabets of the very unique Armenian script.

Checkmate!

There’s no escaping the game of chess in Armenia which is the country’s de facto national sport and obsession. In fact, since 2011, children studying in grades two to four have two weekly chess lessons that are graded just like any other school subject. Parks all over the country are filled with enthusiasts, seen hunched over chess sets, engrossed in a game. Although chess was institutionalised during the early Soviet period, the country has always had a historical love of the game that goes way back to the Middle Ages. This was proven with the discovery of an ancient chess set in the citadel of Dvin — the medieval capital of Armenia, in 1967.

Art attack

An important Yerevan landmark and one that affords an unobstructed view of the revered Mt Ararat from its top is The Cascade. This huge limestone stairway, surrounded by water bodies and step gardens connects the lower main city with the more residential, hilly neighbourhood of Yerevan with its 572 steps on seven levels. Conceived by famous Armenian architect Alexander Tamanyan, the construction of The Cascade was launched by the Soviets in the 1980s and interestingly, it is still not fully complete! The giant structure also houses The Cafesjian Centre for the Arts that has several art pieces and sculptures on display throughout its seven levels.

God’s Own

A short hour’s bus ride from Yerevan is Sevan City which is home to one of Armenia’s most revered sites. Perched on a small hill that overlooks the placid Lake Sevan from its north-western shore, the Monastery of Sevanavank is one of those picture postcard-perfect places. The monastery itself isn’t a single structure but a mini complex of two churches said to have been built in 874AD by Princess Mariam who was the daughter of King Ashot I, at a time when Armenia was trying desperately to rid itself of Arab rule. The first building is called Surp Arakelots meaning the “Holy Apostles” and the one behind it, a little higher on the hill is called Surp Astvatsatsin meaning the “Holy Mother of God”.

Chamber of secrets

Perched majestically atop a small hill in Armenia’s Ararat plain close to the Turkish-Armenian border is the Khor Virap monastery.

Literally meaning “deep dungeon” in Armenian, Khor Virap is said to be the place where Gregory the Illuminator was imprisoned in an underground chamber for 14 years by Pagan King Tiridates III as part of his religious persecution campaign.

It was only in 301 AD when the king was cured of dementia by Gregory, who claimed to have been aided by divine forces, that he was set free and Armenia was declared a Christian country.

Getting there

As there are no direct flights from India to Armenia, one can reach Yerevan by connecting flights from Dubai. Given its compact size, most of the Metro can easily be accessed on foot or by its very convenient and affordable metro train system which comprises 10 stations.
Visa costing is a very affordable US$ 6 for a 21-day or less stay. The easy-to-procure Armenian visa can be availed either online (evisa.mfa.am) or on arrival at Yerevan’s Zvartnots
International Airport.

When to visit

The best time to visit Armenia is during the spring months of April to June and the autumn months of September to November when the weather is pleasant and neither too hot, nor too cold, with day temperatures hovering around 23˚C. As this is considered the off-season for travel, expect discounted deals on accommodation and sightseeing tours across the country.