Ankara: A tale of two cities

Ankara’s flat, modest surroundings, shorn of grand Ottoman architecture and iconic buildings, hardly inspires poetry but its gravitas is unmistakable, writes Neeta Lal

Ottoman houses

The founder of modern Turkey, Mustafa Kemal Ataturk (1881-1938), lies in the Anıtkabir mausoleum at Ankara. PHOTOS COURTESY WIKIPEDIA

Ankara Mosque. PHOTO BY AUTHOR

Ankara suffers a bit from the PR problem known as the “second city syndrome”. It is often overshadowed by its bigger and more feisty sibling, Istanbul, a mecca travellers rarely fail to tick off bucket lists on their Turkish sojourns. But why blame them? Dig a little deeper into the Turkish capital city and a whole new Ankara emerges. One that thrums with creative energy, urban grit and youthful vigour. Young people appear to be its leitmotif. Satchel-strapped students energetically hopping on and off metros in ripped jeans and funky tees. Twenty-somethings indulging in back-slapping jollity at bustling bars and cafes. Fresh-faced youth helming restaurants in buzzy districts like Kavaklıdere and Kızılay, serving you with infectious enthusiasm.

“Ankara boasts of the highest population of youth in Turkey,” local guide Aziz Mudsiar tells me as we stroll along the atmospheric Kavaklıdere area peppered with kitschy souvenir shops, atmospheric bars and restaurants. “The government is positioning the country as a global education hub attracting students from all corners of the globe. They study and then often stay back to work here. We have many great universities and colleges, the most famous being Ankara University established by Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, Turkey’s first President.” he adds.

Two cities for the price of one!

Along with its effervescence, Ankara’s gravitas is unmistakable too. This split personality makes it seem like you’re getting two cities for the price of one! Nestling in the heart of Anatolia, the metropolis was once a popular cultural, trading and arts hub. Referred to in Roman times as Ancyra (anchor), its salience on the caravan Silk Route made it a pivotal base for the War of Liberation waged
by Ataturk. The city’s geopolitical primacy in the Middle East — straddling both Europe and Asia — further propelled it to become Turkey’s capital city in 1923.

Architecture seems central to Ankara’s cultural narrative. The Anıtkabir, an ostentatious tribute to modern Turkey’s founder Mustafa Kemal Atatürk (1881–1938) is perched high above the city. For many Turks arriving in the city, this is usually their first port of call, almost like a mandatory pilgrimage stop.

As I enter the sprawling shrine with marble floors so shiny you could eat off them, I feel dwarfed by the magnitude of architecture all around me. Especially the 24 lion statues that line the driveway on my way in. “These lions are Hittite symbols of power,” I’m informed. “They denoted the strength of the Turkish nation. The Hittites — descendants of Ham, one of Noah’s sons — rose to great power and prosperity during the 14th to the 11th centuries and ruled over north-central Anatolia around 1600 BC.”

The gravelly path — fringed by lush lawns abloom with flowers — leads up to an expansive marble courtyard. A flight of steps later I’m staring at the huge tomb on the left where uniformed guards maintain a strict vigil. A change of guards ceremony is in progress just outside attracting dozens of smartphone-wielding visitors. I stop by to soak in the theatre of lithe guards (some as young as 16-17) performing to drumbeats with exaggerated military gestures and strident salutes. The tomb’s ceiling is unmissable. It is studded with 15th and 16th-century Ottoman mosaics as well as gilded inscriptions, which the guide explains, are quotations from Atatürk’s speeches.

An enormous marble cenotaph, crafted from a single piece of stone weighing 40 tones, dominates the space. Adjacent to the tomb is a museum showcasing Ataturk’s memorabilia, personal effects, as well as gifts from heads of state.

Castle in the air

As one of Turkey’s most ancient sights, the garrisoned 3,000-year-old Ankara Castle is a striking medley of architectures from different eras — Roman, Seljuk, Ottoman. Ironically, its provenance is still unknown. Some believe the Hittites, who had a military garrison in Ankara, built the Castle. Others say it was the handiwork of the Romans.

As I enter the Old Town, that leads up to the castle, sellers of exotic fruit, snacks and touristy nick-knacks attract my eye. I follow a winding trail of cobblestoned lanes ambling past stores draped in evil-eye pendants, silver jewellery, old copper, carpets and kilims, antiques and embroidery. Rustic homes nestle deep within labyrinthine lanes. These old Ankara houses — some dating back to the seventh century — form the castle’s outer wall. Crafted from wood, mud brick, and tile with latticed balconies, they are full of character. And of course, make for great selfie backdrops too! As I enter the castle through a dramatic archway, a group of local youth can be seen singing, dancing and playing exotic looking instruments to entertain a motley crowd. After soaking in the atmosphere, I nip up slowly to other floors — most of which are dilapidated — and then to the castle’s highest point — Akkale or Alitasi — located in its southeastern corner. From the top, a breathtaking view of Ankara opens out before me like a cinematic panorama. A zephyr blows, tousling my hair and caressing my cheeks. The muezzin’s soulful call resonates in the air. I watch the setting sun change colours faster than models on a runway. Soon, the orb disappears behind a cluster of ochre-hued buildings. Darkness slowly envelopes the Janus-faced city that has enchanted and intrigued me in equal measure.