Corsets come back

Made with lighter material like raw silk and denim, these torso-shapers are trending again in new styles, writes Asra Mavad

Since last year, the fashion industry has seen the return of corsets in contemporary clothing in a big way.

Popular shows like Netflix’s ‘Bridgerton’ have amped up the consumer’s interest in Regency-era inspired fashion, believe industry experts.

Shloka Sudhakar, a Bengaluru-based fashion designer, says that today’s customers are heavily influenced by trends on television and social media.

Designs in the niche fashion trend ‘Regencycore’ encompass ruffles, empire lines, elbow-length satin gloves and elaborately embellished headwear. Binding these elements together is the corset, a structured and intricately designed piece of clothing.

Modern adaptations

Today’s fashion industry has bid goodbye to the traditional corsets, which were primarily used as undergarments, says Shloka. “Today, the corset comes in varied forms, and there are many corset-inspired outfits and clothing items. From corset saris to corset belts, designers across the world have given the item their own spin,” she adds.

In India, the hourglass corset has become a growing trend, both in traditional and Western wear, say fashion designers. “The traditional corsets did pay a lot of attention to the bust area. It is no longer the case now as the focus is mainly on the waist area,” says Shiny Alexander, a Bengaluru-based designer. Along with the hourglass shape, sweetheart and scoop necklines are growing in popularity in the Indian market.

She believes while corsets have been in and out of fashion, they will never become a ‘must-have’ in a woman’s daily wear wardrobe. “People who want to make a statement with their outfit are attracted to this trend. Even with all the modern-day improvements, it is not the most comfortable piece of clothing,” she adds.

Making of a corset

A handful of elements form a corset’s structure. “Boning forms the skeletal system of the corset. Apart from this, there is padding, panelling, and drawstrings/zippers, which give the corsets their structural integrity,” explains Shiny.

While the elements need to be intricately placed to form the shape of the corset, a lot of the features get hidden by the fabric and the outer shell. Traditionally, corsets were made with strong fabrics like twill cotton and leather. “Now the more modern adaptations are made with raw silk and denim,” says Shloka. The use of lace and brocade is also getting increasingly popular in the making of corsets.

Apart from lighter fabrics, other elements in a corset have also become more lightweight, points out Mumbai-based designer Shruti Sancheti. “We have better technology today that allows us to create corsets with lightweight boning and wires, while ensuring that the structural integrity of the corset is intact, giving the quintessential hourglass figure,” she adds.

Design challenges

While creating a corset, measurements are crucial. Designer Shloka explains, “To achieve illusions of an hourglass figure, corsets need to be custom made. That is when it will fit the body like a glove. While readymade versions can be mass-produced, they fail to fit perfectly.”

People often fail to understand the structural constraints of a corset, observes Shiny. “Any time a customer orders a corset, I tell them they will not entirely be comfortable in it. Corsets are designed in a way that tucks your tummy and keeps you upright,” she says. If one plans to move around a lot and relish a heavy meal, it is not the right outfit, she explains.

A slice of history

Corsets were worn by women — and sometimes even men — in the Western world, primarily between the 16th to early 20th centuries. “Corsets started out as undergarments. They were largely used by women to enhance their bust and hips while giving the illusion of a slimmer waist,” explains Shloka.

Body modification was largely prevalent during the Victorian and Regency era, says Shruti. “The corsets initially were made with hard materials,” she says.

Corsets helped shape the body into distinctive silhouettes, from the hourglass shape popular in the 1800s to the ‘S’ figure of the 1900s. “They were used to clinch the female body into unlikely shapes. It was mainly worn to achieve the waist size of 18 inches, which was considered the ideal size for women then,” adds Shruti.

Not much importance was given to comfort back then, says Shiny. “Corsets would contort the woman’s body. In some cases, it proved to be harmful to the body,” she adds. Discussions about the corset being detrimental to women’s health began to surface in the 19th century when the popularity of the corset was at its peak.

“Corsets today aren’t as restrictive as they used to be. People today want to feel comfortable in what they wear,” adds Shloka.

Wallet factor

A corset top can cost anywhere between Rs 3,500 and Rs 7,000, while a corset dress or a corset-inspired outfit can cost between Rs 20,000 and Rs 45,000.

‘Not popular in lingerie’

Initially, corsets were worn as undergarments, but over the years it has lost its popularity in the lingerie world, especially in the Indian market. “In India, there are not many takers for corsets in lingerie now. Women today want to feel comfortable in their lingerie,” says a representative of a popular Indian lingerie brand.

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