Dudhsagar: The sea of milk

Surrounded by the lush green Western Ghats, Dudhsagar falls are amongst the tallest falls in India that are a true cascading spectacle, writes Shahin Mokashi

The railway track

The glorious and magnificent Dudhsagar waterfalls on the Karnataka-Goa border are known to take one’s breath away. Living up to its legendary name ‘Sea of Milk’, the Dudhsagar waterfall is truly a heaven on earth. Surrounded by the dense forest of the Western Ghats and being home to endangered flora and fauna, the waterfalls are the fifth tallest waterfalls in India and are in the 22nd position in the world at 310 m (1017 feet). The average width of the waterfalls is said to be 30 meters (100 feet).

Dudhsagar falls is a four-tiered waterfall located on the Mandovi River in Goa. It lies at a distance of 60 km from Panaji and 10 km from Kulem. As one cannot reach the Dudhsagar falls by road from the Karnataka side, the nearest railway station accessible by road to the falls is Castle Rock in Joida taluk of Uttara Kannada district.

One can either trek for about 12 kilometres from here or take the train from Castle Rock to travel about 30 kilometres to the next railway station, Kulem in Goa.

After travelling 12 km from Castle Rock station, the train cuts through Dudhsagar on a winding track amidst the Western Ghats forest. The train stops at Dudhsagar just for a minute or two, as it is only a technical stop and not an official one.

Among a large number of travellers who visit Dudhsagar falls, many disembark here and trek for about 2 to 3 kms. However, this is just half the thrill as one misses out on the view from the other side of the stretch.

For decades, the Dudhsagar waterfall trek has been one of the world’s most exquisite ones.

The water plummets hundreds of metres (over a thousand feet) in large volumes during the rainy season, forming one of the most spectacular natural phenomena.

The pleasant weather is like a cherry on the cake to the beauty of Dudhsagar. During the monsoon season, a visit to Dudhsagar can be risky. As it is located in a dense forest, the trail becomes quite slippery and there are also other risk factors such as spotting wild animals, and leech and honeybee attacks, apart from a lack of basic facilities on the stretch. Due to heavy rains, the water level rises drastically and it is best to avoid a trip to Dudhsagar during the monsoons.

The trek

There are two ways to trek to Dudhsagar falls. One can either trek from Kulem railway station which is the most comfortable option for those coming from Mumbai, Pune, and Goa or the other route would be from the Castle Rock railway station which is convenient for people travelling from Karnataka. No matter which side you choose to visit, getting life jackets on rent is vital, as you will need this at the Dudhsagar waterfalls swimming site. It is also compulsory if you want to enter the deep waters. From Castle Rock railway station, one needs to trek alongside the railway track to reach Dudhsagar waterfalls campsite. The distance is 14 kilometres and it takes 4 to 5 hours.

There are two options to reach Dudhsagar waterfall campsite from Kulem. One is the mud road trek and the other is the railway track trek. Via the mud track, the campsite is 12 km and it takes 5 to 6 hours. Alongside the railway track, the campsite is 11 km and it takes 4 to 5 hours. One can enjoy the trek on both tracks by starting the trek through the railway track to Sonalium railway station and then joining the mud road till Dudhsagar falls.

Recently, the Forest Department issued strict guidelines and officials now keep a close watch on trekkers from Castle Rock to Dudhsagar. Hence, it is always advisable to reach Kulem, get a ticket by paying a fee of Rs 100, hire a local guide and enjoy your trek. Some private trek organisers associated with the Forest Department also operate from here.

Safety measures

The waterfalls can sometimes be death traps as many cases have been reported over the years due to undercurrents and slippery rocks. Hence, visitors should be more cautious and must follow precautions. Measures are being taken to improve the safety of tourists by hiring more lifeguards. Due to safety purposes and other reasons, the falls, as well as the Bhagwan Wildlife sanctuary (Mollem National Park), do not remain open throughout the day. The gate to the wildlife sanctuary opens at 7 am and closes by 5 pm. The Forest Department charges a nominal fee of Rs 400 per person for a jeep safari ride while also providing life jackets to tourists.

Plan well

During your visit to Dudhsagar, do not separate from the rest of the group. Keep family and friends informed about your whereabouts. Carry documents of original identity proof, water bottles, food, a good quality torch with cells, a power bank, lightweight sports shoes, extra clothes, a sanitary kit, and medicines. Mobile connectivity is unavailable in the area and consuming liquor or any kind of alcoholic substance is prohibited. Carrying any kind of substance that’s illegal is not allowed. Though there is one viewpoint near Dudhsagar waterfalls, the washroom facility here is ill-maintained. If it starts raining, one can face a lot of difficulties. Hence, carrying rain-proof gear is advisable.