Hope lingers on djinns in these ruins

The Feroz Shah Kotla Fort ruins narrate a tale commingled with Ashoka’s ancient India, medieval age mysticism and the hustle of modern times, writes Tanisha Saxena

Jami Masjid mosque in the midst of the Feroz Shah Kotla Fort

The cavernous chamber in Feroz Shah Kotla Fort is dark and humid. The air is heavy with the fragrance of incense sticks. The walls are covered with dull photocopies of what looks like petitions and impassive faces that stare back through passport size photographs. It has been nearly twelve years since Shabreen visited the fort. She takes out a piece of paper and sticks it over the wall pondering with her eyes closed. She says “Everything has changed in my life since I started visiting the place, all my wishes come true and my family is happy.” Shabreen is a frequent visitor from Lakshmi Nagar and on days she is unable to pay the visit, a feeling of regret and longing occupies her.

Ashoka’s pillar

Built by Sultan Feroz Shah Tuglaq in 1351 CE on the banks of Yamuna, the fort is one of Delhi’s unexplored places shrouded in a veil of mystic djinns. It is the core of the city of Firozabad. Being an extensive city, Firozabad stretches to the northern ridge. To the south, the city extends upto Lal Kot/Quila Rai Pithora (today’s area around Qutub Minar). It was the first of the capitals to be built on the banks of Yamuna. History has it that the fort has stood the test of time. The fort was the sultan’s residence, had meeting rooms, Delhi’s only circular baoli and a huge palace mosque. I have vivid memories of the time when Feroz Shah Kotla became a household name in India. Anil Kumble’s “perfect 10” vs Pakistan scripted history here. Yet the Kotla ruins (Kushk i Feroz) remain unexplored. The gate, once embellished, is now reduced to ruins. History was written in every stone and Kotla Fort helped make sense of the city. The most striking feature of the place is a shining stone pillar standing atop a three-storeyed pyramidal structure. The Ashoka Pillar that dates back to the Mauryan empire, is 13 metres high and is made of sandstone.

Transported from Ambala

This lat (stone pillar) is one of the two pillars of Ashoka (273- 236BC) removed by Feroz Shah Tuglaq from Topra in Ambala district and the second one is now kept near Hindu Rao Hospital. This was brought from Meerut. The lat was transported to Feroz Shah Kotla by wrapping it in silk cotton around the column, encased in reeds and raw skins and was carried in a carriage of 42 wheels. The emperor personally checked the transportation arrangements. After the installation of the lat some ornamental friezes in black and white stones were placed around its capital.

The circular baoli

Another interesting thing about the Kotla ruins is the circular baoli or stepwell. Surrounded by lush greenery and pockets of dense canopies, the baoli looks elegant. It is now a closed structure and one can get a top view from the pyramidal structure. This is the only circular baoli in Delhi, and also one of the four baolis where the tank is not separated from the well.

Jami Masjid

Jami Masjid is the main congregational mosque of the fort. It is one of the largest and oldest mosques which is still worshipped by people. It is a two-storeyed structure with cells at the lower level and a courtyard for praying at the higher level. The entrance to the courtyards is from the north gate and one has to climb massive stairs. The gates were embellished with ornamental stones and a parapet, but now all this has been destroyed. However, it still retains the old charm. It is said that the masjid was so spectacular that Sultan Timur of Timurid dynasty came to visit it.

Djinns & judgement

Every Thursday, the ruins of Feroz Shah Kotla turns into a city of djinns. Believers pray, light candles and write letters to djinns. People come from every nook and cranny of the city to profess their secrets. In the niches and alcoves of the fort, there are photocopies, handwritten letters with the believers’ complete address. The believer is expected to make a trip to the ruins for seven jumme raats (Friday nights) for their wish to come true.

According to Islamic mythology, Allah created adam (humans) from clay, angels from noor (light) and djinns from smokeless fire.

The ministry of djinns works, unlike today’s system, at midnight when they hold darbar and discuss the petitions. Allah grants the wishes of those who seem genuine.

Letters awaiting djinns

According to historians, the practice of worshipping djinns goes back to the 1970s when people started thronging to the fort a few months after the Emergency. However, according to the supernatural theory, djinns have been living here for the past four decades.

A fakir named Laddo Shah came and started living in the fort. He told his followers that there are certain energies in the form of djinns at the monument and they fulfil people’s wishes.

Moreover, the Emergency was a traumatic experience for people and especially Muslims. People came to seek solutions to their woes and the tradition continues.