In Sattal, the land of seven lakes

This hill station in Uttarakhand is all about its birds, its walks and lakes, but it can also be about nothing as it is a paradise for the wayfarer who is just looking for a few days of peace and a life that’s different, writes Nilanjan Coomar

Khalij pheasant

Black-throated Tit. PHOTOS BY AUTHOR

Chestnut-tailed starling

Sattal, literally the land of seven lakes, is tucked quietly into a corner of the lower Himalayas, a shy sibling of its inarguably more famous sister, Nainital. Among hill stations, it doesn’t have any particular claim to fame, nor a unique allure. Quiet and somewhat obscure, in a sense it’s just there, and in many ways, that’s just as well.

For a lover of wildlife, the lower Himalayas is always an exciting place. Away from the dust of the plains, high enough to be in a regime of a cooler clime, yet not so high to be transformed into the ice and rock desert of the truly lofty ranges, these foothill mountains straddle across a range of rapidly changing altitude and climate belts that engender a mind-boggling variety of flora and fauna, especially of an avian kind. By the time we get to Sattal, the evening is setting in. We walk the last bit to camp, the silence of falling dusk wrapped in the crunch of gravel beneath our shoes, broken occasionally by the faintly raucous but tell-tale call of the unseen black francolin. On arrival, we sit quietly, sipping our teas at the end of the day’s journey. Shades of red and orange streak the distant horizon. The light drains from the sky, the darkness spreading like a slow stain across the tops of the trees. The final drongo of the day makes a few last sallies to gather insects for its dinner. Early morning the next day, an explosion of birdsong wakes us up, almost to the point of being a rude awakening! We step out of bed, bleary and sleepy-eyed, but agape in amazement.

Sunbirds, warblers and flowerpeckers screech and dart about, as if there’s not a moment to lose. Babblers argue with characteristic vehemence; the woodpeckers swoop in amongst the trees and set up their impatient drumming. Above it all, are the plaintive calls of the cuckoo and the spotted dove, a bit staid and impervious to all the frenzied twittering below. As quickly as we can, we hit the main road heading through the forest. And it’s not a moment too soon. It’s a delightful trail that snakes around the hillside, leading all the way to Sattal Lake. At the first bend of the road, right beside the absolutely breathtaking Sattal Christian Estate, we run into a troop of somewhat skittish Khalij pheasants. Up ahead, the road curves to the right and our guide excitedly points to a whole bunch of wedge-tailed green pigeons. Some are in full courtship display: against the backdrop of a nostalgic blue, they are a delightful riot of colour, rim-lighted by the rays of the fresh morning sun. There is more birding activity along this road, and before long we have sighted many species — rusty-cheeked scimitar babbler, bar-winged flycatcher shrike, black-throated sunbird, red-billed blue magpie, grey-winged blackbird, mountain bulbul and chestnut-tailed starling — just to name a few.

As far as exploring the wondrous bird life of Sattal is concerned (330 recorded species), the options are boundless. There is the famous Sattal studio in the forest just abutting the Sattal Lake: a network of small waterways, streams and puddles, with perches for birds set up strategically for wildlife photography. Verditer, paradise and slaty-blue flycatchers; tits, bulbuls, thrushes, finches and owlets are
delightfully common here.

Birding hides at various homestays around the village also help enthusiasts see shyer species such as magpies, scimitar babblers, laughing thrushes and the absolutely stunning rufous throated partridge. We later go exploring one of the lakes — Garur Tal. From the top of the hill, the road twists and turns in a slithery grey amongst the foliage of the forest; the lake itself, a spot of a breathless turquoise far below, ringed by the yellow and brown of the fallen leaves of summer.

There is not a soul around. The water is sleepy and calm, and we sit on the bank enjoying the scene and the silence. A common kingfisher occasionally streaks from one rock to the other, keeping its eyes on us, sometimes veering close to take a curious look. Later, at the main Sattal Lake itself, where the water is hemmed in by the hills in a tight embrace, we spend a good hour kayaking gently with the slight current, lingering around just enough to catch a sunset. The sunsets are even prettier from the viewpoint up on the hill. A local joins us. A rustic tune plays on his phone; it’s an interesting song that talks about city folks coming to the forests and villages, yet busy with their phones and tablets and televisions, seeking, but not really understanding, the living of life that is of a simpler kind!

In the late afternoons, a walk along the trail that cuts through the Christian Ashram Estate, parallel to the main forest road, is another exploration of the colours of nature. We spend long hours sitting on the benches underneath the tall and stately trees, the breeze from the valley below gently soughing through the branches. The sun slips across the sky, and before it gently sinks behind the hills, the early-summer yellow and orange of the forest have burst forth, backlit in a brilliance all of their own.

Sattal isn’t touristy; it enthrals without keeping you busy. Bereft of shops, restaurants and entertainment options, Sattal is a paradise for the wayfarer who is just looking for a few days of peace and a life that’s different!

All about Sattal

How to reach?

Sattal is in Kumaon in Uttarakhand, about 2 hours by road from a well-connected train station at Kathgodam. It is about a 7-hour drive from Delhi airport and a little over three hours from Pantnagar Airport.

When to go?

All round the year. In April and early May, the jungle is at its most colourful due to the blooming of flowers and the birdlife, in its breeding plumage, is especially amazing at that time. The winter months are for crisp mountain views and migratory bird species.

What to do?

Immerse yourself in the pristine wilderness and the silence of these forests. Go for endless walks. Photograph the incredible birdlife. Explore the lakes and amazing sunrise and sunset views.

Where to stay?

There are several rustic and charming homestays tucked away into the mountainside. Specialised birding guides and photography hides are available. It is far better to stay at Sattal and enjoy the peace and quiet of the place, rather than do rushed tours from Nainital.