It's raining food!

The monsoon season need not always be about damp clothes and a dampened digestion, there’s plenty to choose from and indulge in come rain or shine, writes Dakshina Ghosh

Karkidaka Kanji

When the wind takes a turn around the month of June and torrential rains envelop the country, there is a sense of lethargy that prevails. Watching the droplets fall with a hot broth in hand would be an ideal way to spend the time for many. But for the larger population, it would be business as usual. The rains bring with it a hoard of issues, ranging from damp clothes to a dampened digestion.

The seasonal discipline as dictated by our ancient knowledge of Ayurveda states that the toxins that accumulate in the body during the dry summer, preceding the rains aggravate the physiological energy known as ‘Vata’ during the monsoon and incorrect food consumption during this season leads to an aggravation of ‘Pitha’. This for the common man translates to sluggish digestion, gastro infections and arthritic pain.

Traditionally, households depended on what was available in the season and who knows what best to feed us other than mother nature. But as modernisation set in, the global food market ensured that there is always everything available, irrespective of season or locale. Our various scripts and grandma tales speak volumes about the roots of good immunity and discourages the consumption of many food ingredients during the monsoon while emphasising on including certain other food elements. Each community or region of India has in its practices many such dos and don’ts that help us battle the heavy downpour and its health issues.

The regular green leaves available in our markets, are definitely a no-no during the rains, for the fear of contamination leading to infections and also for the slower digestion they entail. But nature grows its own special greens during the rains which can benefit the human body much. These lesser-known varieties can help in boosting the immune system, particularly during wet days. One such leaf is the Cassia Tora, commonly known as Panwarh, Chakunda, Chakramard, Kulb, Kovaraya, Tankala, Sickle senna, Sickle pod, Tora, Tovara, Chakvad, Tagiris, Taikulo or Thakara. This grows abundantly in waysides as a regular weed and can be easily dismissed by a layman. But the leaves of this plant were consumed in many cultures and has in store immense benefits for our health. The red amaranth leaves or Laal Maath, often seen as a filler in paddy fields, is a summer crop, but can thrive well during the monsoons and offer many nutrients appropriate for this season. Another leaf that grows vastly in rainy wooded regions and is used for medicinal purposes in Ayurveda is the skunk vine also known as Bhedailota, Prasarini, Suprasara, Gandhabadhule, Hesarini, Tala Nili, Haranvel or Savirel.

In Assam the Bhedailota is often used as an ingredient in dals and gravies as is the Dhekia Saag or fiddlehead fern found in forest coverings. Water spinach, known as Nali, Nir Keerai, Vayal Cheera, Nari Saag or Kolmi Saag is yet another leaf, deliciously good for the liver, keeping it strong during the rains when it can become easily infected. Moringa leaves that are today sold as capsules or powders and termed as a superfood, is good, fibrous, beneficial and was easily found in many house yards in earlier days.

Some vegetables that should be avoided during the rains are colourful vegetables with seeds, like brinjals, tomatoes, pumpkin, and all types of bell peppers or capsicum, due to the presence of alkaloids which can aggravate conditions like hives or other allergies in this weather. But other vegetables such as a variety of gourd are a must-have during this season.

Any bitter element is said to be beneficial during this time and hence the bitter gourd or karela sabzi is omnipresent in most homes in our country, in and around the season. Neem is another purifying bitter ingredient that finds its way from summer through the monsoon diet in many regions. The Neem rasam or just plain fried neem leaves are coveted accompaniments with rice. While the awareness and consumption of these vegetables are well known, there are few other vegetables that are typically found growing well during the rains but not usually sold in big city supermarkets or cooked in modern Indian homes.

The Kantola, Kakrol, Keski, Kakara or known as the spiny gourd is a climber that grows well during the monsoons and this little spiky vegetable is best when fried or pickled. The air potato known as Dukkar Khand, Kattu Kaachil, Pitalu, Nela Dumpa Gathalu, Pannu Pilangu, Hengenassu, Barahi Khand or Karaino is another vegetable, that looks like a potato tuber but grows on vines in air and hence the name. This can be made into a dish like any other starchy vegetable.

Both these vegetables are an excellent aid in controlling sugar levels during these less active monsoon months. Consumption of all types of tubers is good during the rains and their long shelf life ensures that they are easily available during this period when it is difficult to procure fresh vegetables.

That brings us to a very popular tuber Colocasia or Arbi where both the root and the leaves are enjoyed in various ways in both the western and eastern part of the peninsula.

Though oily food may not be a healthy choice generally, during the rains, a small amount of healthy fats and oils, especially ghee is encouraged. This I guess is the reason for those fried bajjis and pakoras taking centerstage in Indian families the moment the clouds darken.

A special detoxifying gruel consumed in Kerala, during the rains is the Karkidaka kanji. Named after the Malayalam month of Karkidakam when thunderstorms and downpours are at their peak, this porridge is made from medicinal Navara rice in which fenugreek, cumin, and many medicinal herb powders are included along with coconut milk and jaggery. In the Western part of India, many households make small pebbles of dried ginger, long pepper and licorice for regular consumption to keep infections of the gall bladder at bay. Among the fruits, Jamun is popular and consumed in plenty during this season across the country.

Pomegranates are well known for their blood purification and regeneration properties and good to have in this season. Traditionally this is the season that brings members of a family together with outdoor activities being limited. The lack of activities and the laid-back atmosphere allows time for self-care, detoxifying diets and a general sense of keeping well before the weather changes and the next season with all its festivities comes around.