Krakow’s worth its salt!

The 13th-century salt mine in Wieliczka is one of the world’s oldest salt mines with a unique geological structure. It is a stunning testimony to technological progress occasioned by human ingenuity and endeavour, writes Chitra Ramaswamy

Creativity in salt in the depths of the mine in Wieliczka

Salt sculptures depicting early salt making

I do not know if I’m imagining the smell of salt wafting through the air as I walk along with other tourists, the eerie depths of subterranean space where the giant star on the horizon is certainly alien. I wonder if the humble condiment, chemically referred to as sodium chloride, has any smell at all!

Behold here the exquisite handiwork of man and nature — bewitching beauties sculpted out of the hard crystalline mineral, defying all description and imagination. We are in Krakow’s Kopalnia soli Wieliczka or Wieliczka Salt Mine, one of Poland’s official national historic monuments, and a rare celebration of industrial history. The 13th-century mine is one of the world’s oldest salt mines with a unique geological structure not seen anywhere else on the planet. It is a stunning testimony to technological progress occasioned by human ingenuity and endeavour.

While the saline deposit in Wieliczka is supposed to have formed in the Miocene era about 13.6 million years ago, salt from the site began to be used by the natives only 6,000 years ago. The pit itself was established in the 13th century when the organic mineral was commercially a medieval equivalent of today’s oil. Then known as the Magnum Sal or Great Salt, Poland’s largest salt source was the principal means of employment and livelihood for the nation’s people.

Mining of rock salt ceased in Wieliczka in 1964 when there was a switch to industrial production of evaporated salt. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1978, and a National Historic Monument in 1994, the hypogeal memorial is also referred to as “the Underground Salt Cathedral of Poland” because it contains a trio of chapels and a cathedral that has been carved entirely out of saline rocks. However, table salt continued to be produced here until 2007. It was subsequently turned into a museum for public display.

A 245 km long tunnel, dotted with 3000 chambers comprising nine levels sprawled over depths of up to 327m below the earth’s surface, defines this commemorative masterpiece. As tourists, we get to see a bare 2% of the whole, spread over three levels reaching depths of 135 m and a total walking distance of 3.5 km.

We reach the first level, 64 metres down by a flight of 378 wooden steps. The cool blast of air is comforting and a subtle taste of salt brushes our lips as we walk the several alcoves, the ceilings and walls of which resemble rough, unpolished green-grey marble or granite. We travel through stalactites and stalagmites-embellished picturesque briny landscape that includes a warren of well-lit labyrinthine tunnels, ramps, walkways, corridors, halls, chambers, houses of worship with altars, lakes, museums and galleries. Every inch of this underground world is replete with breathtaking statues, murals and chandeliers, crafted by miners through centuries, entirely out of halite as the rocky spice is called. In addition to these ornamented displays, the mine also chronicles the advancement made in salt mining
technology. Aided by audio guides, we absorb the interesting and jaw-dropping features of the city of ‘white gold’, a chef-d’œuvre and the labour of love that took shape over a few hundred years.

As we venture 105m below the earth’s surface, we are held spellbound by the miners’ craftsmanship at St Kinga’s Chapel. The two-storeyed cavernous vault, stunning in structure and sculptural detail, is bathed in the glow of lights from five chandeliers, all crafted out of the white mineral. The Mine’s piece de resistance, this place of worship, the deepest and largest on earth, measures 54m x 18m x 12m. Considered the brainchild of brothers Josef and Tomasz Markowski, and Antoni Wyrodek, it took the efforts of several artists over 60 years to complete and used 20,000 tonnes of the edible mineral. An effigy of Pope John Paul II sporting his papal hat and staff, along with several large biblical bas-reliefs including Da Vinci’s Last Supper welcomes us here. Known for its amazing acoustics, the chapel hosts not only masses but wedding ceremonies and concerts also.

We become immersed in the legend of Duchess Kinga who brought the prized salt to Poland. The 13th-century historical figure who was the daughter of King Bela IV of Hungary married the Polish Duke Boleslaw Wstydliwy who ruled Krakow and became the patron of the miners. Kinga is believed to have dropped her engagement ring into the Maramures salt mine, then considered part of Hungary.

However, the ring miraculously found its way to Wieliczka along with salt deposits and was subsequently rediscovered. The miners thus paid a tribute to the Duchess by erecting her statue at that spot.

As we move on, leaving Kinga behind, we are lulled by Frederic Chopin’s melancholic etude in the Weimar chamber, so named to honour Johann von Goethe who visited the mines in 1787.

We are as much mesmerised by the play of lights and sounds here as by the sight of the legendary Skarbniks of the mine, observed from a viewing platform that stretches over a saline lake. These good spirits, diminutive in the frame, according to mythology safeguarded the miners and their treasures. We, shutterbugs, weave our way in and out of the various halls clicking away at the gnomes, murals, salt mining machinery and tools, and wooden and rubber forms that blend aesthetically with the salt structures.

A towering, 6m tall salt sculpture of Nikolas Copernicus holding an orb in his outstretched hands greets us as we enter another cavernous hall. Incidentally, we learn that he was the first tourist to the mine to be known by name and the life-size statue was carved to honour this visit. Of the several figurines and busts of prominent personalities of the times that adorn the various chambers, one of Casimir III, the only Polish king to have earned the moniker ‘Great’.

As a result of the revenue earned from salt extraction, he was able to transform Poland from a country made of wood to one made of stone! He is also credited with having established Poland’s first university, the Krakow Academy, in 1364.

Having travelled down 135m below the earth’s surface, the final level of our tour, we rest our weary feet and heed the call of our growling bellies. We snack at the well-equipped restaurant and browse the souvenir stands to carry back some memorabilia with us. As we enjoy a gastronomic odyssey of vegetarian Polish delights, we chance upon interesting facts associated with this tourist crowd-puller. Because of its unpolluted air, rich in micronutrients, the mine boasts an underground health resort which is frequented by those suffering from asthma and respiratory disorders. In addition, private parties and conferences
are also held here.

Our senses barely sated, still dizzy from the awe-inspiring creations, we bundle into a four-car elevator at the third level, for a 30-second super speedy ride to the mine surface.

For me, who suffers from claustrophobia, each car which has the capacity to hold nine persons was a veritable pigeonhole into which we stuffed ourselves. I am thankful for a safe landing in one piece. I greedily breathe in a lungful of fresh air to make good the oxygen debt (perhaps a figment of my fertile imagination) I feel.