Millet mania

An essential part of traditional Indian cuisine, millets are increasingly being selected as a preferred alternative due to their high nutritional value and health benefits, writes Sangeeta Sen

Millets, recognised as small grass-seeds, have travelled through different cultures across the globe. In fact, according to fascinating historical records, the ‘millets cultivation aestheticism’ began with Hou Ji, Lord of Millets, initiating the cultivation of holy millets in the Yellow River Basin region of Northern China,
during the time of the Xia Dynasty about 6000 years ago; then, spreading to Japan, Korean Peninsula; and finally, passing through the Manchurian route to the Russian North East, rather Siberia. At the other end, the culture of cultivating millets spread from East Africa to the rural regions of Eastern India and soon,
became the quintessential staple crop of the indigenous tribes settled in these regions. Indeed, millets have had a long sojourn. Wherever millets travelled,
different varieties having high nutrition levels and unique features of adapting to climatic variations were looked upon as highly prized staple cereal grains.

Yet, however, with the passage of time, due to problems of arduous primary processing techniques of millets as well as government policies favouring the production of rice and wheat, there has been a decline in the cultivation of millets
in rural areas. Also, with rapid urbanisation and the subsequent changes in food habits, the popularity of millet as a food staple diminished. But, recently, after savouring a slightly mushy, whitish cereal along with some spicy fowl curry, I was told it is the Gundli Chaal made with the ancestral staple cereal Gundli, (small oval-shaped, pale yellow barnyard millets). With 2023 being declared the International Year of Millets, there has been the execution of agricultural programmes that focus on increased cultivation of Gundli millets. Health-conscious urban households are switching over to millet as these cereal grains have higher levels of nutrition than rice or wheat. Additionally, although millets available at the supermarket are more expensive than rice or wheat, a majority of households are substituting rice or wheat with millets as core ingredients of main cereal-based cuisines.

In fact, traditionally for the Dhindo cuisine, kodo millets are ground to a fine powder by the jhato (traditional stone grinder used in rural Sikkim); then, added to the boiling water in the phalame tapke (traditional Sikkimese iron pan), set over a medium flame and then, stirring the ground millet mixture continuously, until the mixture turns brown and is of thick, sticky consistency. Finally, as per tradition, the Dhindo mixture is ladled onto steel plates and served with a bowl of the traditional Gundruk ko Jhol (soup of dried, fermented mustard and radish leaves, flavoured with mustard and fenugreek seeds). Flavour-wise, when small balls, formed from the Dhindo mixture, are dipped in the Gundruk ko Jhol, the fermented Gundruk is known to impart a pungent flavour to the sweet kodo millets. Also, according to fascinating ancient Sangam literary texts highlighting ancient Tamil culture, oval-shaped, black foxtail millet grains, locally referred to as Thinai Arisi, having a couscous-like nutty flavour, was a highly prized staple crop cultivated in Tamil Nadu, way back in the second century.

Even today, in many quintessential cuisines of the south, foxtail millets are the primary ingredients. While making the classic Thinai Idli, a friend sticks to the tradition of steaming a fermented batter of soaked Thinai Arisi millets, urad dal (split black gram lentils), fenugreek seeds and salt; and then, savouring the steamed Thinai Idli with the traditional sambar (a type of tamarind-flavoured soup of tur dal (pigeon pea lentils) and mixed vegetables like drumsticks, pumpkin, bhindi (lady’s fingers) and eggplant slices). “The nutty flavour of Thinai Arisi blends well with the sour tamarind-flavoured sambar,” she added. Most importantly, all millet kinds ensure good health from a health standpoint because they are easily digestible and packed with nutritional fibres that help prevent constipation issues. The low calorie count and low glycemic index of these millets make them excellent for diabetics, and they also help one feel lighter after eating them. Moreover, millets contain more iron than other grains like rice or wheat.