Rishikesh, where god & man intermingle...

One of Hinduism’s most sacred sites, Rishikesh in Uttarakhand is a chaotic confluence where saints and sinners cohabit seamlessly. Raul Dias discovers more than just the spiritual side of this magical city by the holy River Ganga

I had been amply warned that Rishikesh is the kind of place where almost always, everything seems to be happening all at once. And now, I was bearing witness to my own moment of disorganised chaos.

Four little girls are arguing amongst themselves to ascertain who was first in getting my attention to buy their leaf bowls brimming with tiny dough balls meant to serve as fish food. The well-groomed, vermilion-robed priest is trying his best to explain to me, in chaste Hindi, the ritual I am about to partake in. All this, while a gangajal Jerry can seller is furiously tugging at my sleeve, also trying to get my attention.

Scenes like this are commonplace here at the city’s famed Triveni Ghat, my friend, de facto guide, and Rishikesh resident Manish tells me. “We are like this, only,” he bandies the much-used Indian phrase.

Instant Karma

Known as the spiritual heartland of India, Rishikesh is a quaint little city that’s big on everything else. I figure this out almost as soon as I get here. I have just arrived after a short hour’s long drive from the town of Narendra Nagar up above in the foothills of the Shivalik Range of the Himalayan state of Uttarakhand. And Rishikesh seems to already be putting on a show of a lifetime for me.

Be it sights, sounds and incense stick aromas wafting by, all seem larger-than-life. Here, you encounter saints intermingling with sinners. The latter believing that washing away their sins in the holy River Ganga is the only path to moksha or eternal salvation. And why not? The lure of peace and tranquillity has been bringing in droves of seekers over the decades. Known multifariously as a ‘Spiritual Haven’, the ‘Yoga Capital of the World’ and of course, as the place where The Beatles had their most poignant tryst with Indian spirituality in the late 1960s.

Manish makes sure to show me the famous swaying Ram Jhula bridge that fords the Ganga a little outside the main city centre. Before it was a suspension bridge, this Rishikesh icon was merely a hanging jute ropeway bridge, bereft of any supporting pillars. Thus, its moniker of jhoola or swing.

Just before sunset, riverside areas and ghats of Rishikesh take on a surreal charm with temple bells ringing and rhythmic chants by priests and tourists as they participate in the nightly Ganga aarti prayer ritual. But hang on, as I soon discovered, Rishikesh is not all spirituality! It is also a popular white-water rafting centre, backpacker hang-out and Himalayan trekking gateway.
But more on that in a bit. I first need to pay obeisance at the altar of one of Rishikesh’s major calling cards. Food.

Bits & bites

For me, ever the food lover, the true pulse of a city can only be assessed via its food. And Rishikesh doesn’t disappoint on that front with its myriad ‘pure vegetarian’ food offerings.

So, expect to find everything from hipster chic cafés serving acai bowls and kombucha to the more traditional eateries serving local Garhwali fare. These make sure to serve dishes made with hyper-local ingredients like the tangy shakarkandi (sweet potato) chaat. Or perhaps, kandli ka saag (curried stinging nettle leaves) for mains along with a red ragi (millets) flatbread, local stuffed fried bread called swala for tea and warming rice pudding bowls topped with mountain berries like jhangore for dessert.

Another great way to end your meal in Rishikesh on a sweet note is by indulging in one...or three gulgulas. What this basically is is an insanely popular Uttarakhandi festive fried delicacy made from flour and jaggery and found at almost every street corner in the city. Both calorific, and terrific in equal measure!

Great points of view

One of the best places and the perfect vantage point to surround oneself with the allure and reposefulness of the main city of Rishikesh below is undoubtedly from the many hills and mountains that form its backbone. With sights of the glorious Ganga flowing through on a meandering course, like a silvery ribbon wowing you silently with its brilliance. All this, surrounded by deep forested hills.

Speaking of which, here is where one can opt for an easy trek up to the Kunjapuri Temple. Perched at a height of 1,676 meters, it offers another sort of spiritual adventure and stunning vistas of the plains below.

The temple is dedicated to Goddess Durga and is one of the 51 Shakti Peethas or power centres in Hinduism. Or, one could always explore the natural wonders of the Rajaji National Park, home to wild elephants and leopards. The options, like the beauty and charm of Rishikesh itself, are endless and infinite.