Saffron, the amorous spice

In Old World antiquity, saffron was an object of conspicuous consumption. More than a culinary additive, it was a dye, perfume, medicinal herb and an aphrodisiac pushing its demand and price beyond gold, writes Janardhan Roye

The thing about Tuscany is that the more you see, the more you realise how much more there is to see! In a rented Alfa-Romeo, windows down, we cruised past Toscana’s evocative surroundings — misty grey-blue hills, cypress trees, meadows ablaze with flowers, and one charming town after another brimming with astonishing beauty…and surprises.

At one point we were on an off-road medieval pathway, uncodified La via Roma aka via Francigena where pilgrims once trudged by foot to pray at St Peter’s tomb or went northwards, towards Canterbury, often passing merchants with loaded ox-drawn carts heading to Centro commerciale or Adriatic seaports. The route was rife with challenges — bandits, wolf packs, feuding factions’ crossfire. Invariably in the situation, travellers performed a series of rituals before leaving home — clearing debts, making wills, obtaining blessings of elders, asking forgiveness of anyone whom they might have offended.

At a Poggibonsi-San Gimignano crossroad, groups of cyclist-tourists whizzed us by — either they were on the programmed medieval pilgrims’ track or on a Chianti vineyard trail. As we gleefully discussed this, a strikingly gorgeous patch of violet-lilac like a Van Gough iris painting framed the windshield.

Intrigued, we braked and footed it to the happy, smiling field of short plants, narrow leaves and blossoms. There, a floppy hatted gent was telling a small group, “saffron is a sterile plant, not found in the wild. Grows only when its bulbs are hand planted.”

Kesari! I whispered and the Indian family smiled. The lively spice, the timeless darling of Indian cookery that infuses flavour, aroma and colour to rice specials, savouries, sweets and desserts, puddings, and beverages, here? How come?

In Old World antiquity, saffron was an object of conspicuous consumption. More than a culinary additive, condiment, it was a dye, perfume, medicinal herb. In Ptolemic times, Cleopatra upped her looks bathing in milk laced with saffron. The wealthy Romans used saffron for several health reasons. Its wide use as an aphrodisiac got it the moniker ‘the amorous spice,’ pushing its demand and a price beyond gold.

Saffron has wielded storybook power in global kitchens and spawned cultivation in several countries. Though native to Persia, some say its origin could be Crete. Today 90 per cent of global production comes from Iran, followed by Spain, India, Greece, Morocco, and Italy.

In Italy, from the earliest times, saffron was grown, harvested in Tuscan areas such as San Gimignano.

As our car closed in on this destination, Citta De San Gimignano, a series of breathtaking views stopped us. Beyond the fields, atop a hill was a strikingly tall vertical tower piercing the clouds. In a short time, more crowded the skyline, something writer D H Lawrence likened to ‘the angry porcupines on the hill’.

The stone towers or palazzos, ‘the Manhattan in medieval Tuscany’ were the architectural marvels built by successful San Gimignano business families from the enormous profits they made in the saffron trade. In its heydays, there were 72. Now only 13 stand to put the small-walled San Gimignano on the UNESCO heritage map.

As per the Associazione Amici dello zafferano di San Gimignano, the region is one of the earliest producers of saffron. Remarkably, those 11-13th century practices continue though on a smaller scale.

Just as their ancestors did, early in the day women farmers were handpicking crocuses. The bulbs get cleaned — ‘mondatura’ and deflowered, ‘sfioritura’ — three orange-red stigmas from each flower are extracted to be roasted over glowing charcoal. "80 per cent of weight disappears. Maybe 1,20,000 flowers give one-kilo zafferano," explained Gina, pointing to the luminous claret-red product on her desk.

Back at our ancient castle turned B&B, our charming hostess, Cledy answered our queries and brought us to speed on zafferano di San Gimignano.

With that, we checked out the region’s epicurean offerings — pecorino and other cheeses; bruschetta — bread and unsalted breads; handmade pasta; local fruit, veggies sourced from organic farms. Surprisingly, many dishes were from middle age recipes handed down through generations!

And zafferani? Yes, it was there in many a culinary delight. At the B&B. At quaint exposed brickwork restaurants. At farmhouses and sun-dappled terraces with light birch table-benches, enlivened with lilting Tuscany music: Tomato and Egg Skillet, a breakfast of poached egg, potatoes, tomatoes sprinkled with saffron; dry-cured golden ham; tagliatelle with zucchini and saffron; the aromatic chicken alla cacciatoa; ruffled edged veggie pasta, radiatori; pappardelle di cinghiale, wild boar in white wine, garlic, sage, olive oil; Risotto alla Milanese… all paired with the cook’s wine recommendation such as the white, Vernaccia di San Gimignano.

And to end meals on a happy note there was dolce, something sweet: fresh fruit and biscotti, cantucci, hard, almond biscuits for dipping in rosé — sweet wine; and to up the indulgence wickedly, torta di pere, saffron pear cake! And for the delightful treats we thanked the violet-lilac blossoms. Grazie Mille!