Sensible eats

Food delivery models, meal kits and experiential dining through an innovative blend of cuisines promise to make 2021 a good mix of realistic luxury, writes Madhulika Dash

A few years ago, while talking about everything under the dining out roof, the straight-talker (late) chef Anthony Bourdain had said, “food trends are just a pile of good ideas — that are appealing, happily replicated and loved by diners.” The Parts Unknown curator couldn’t have been far from reality. In the past few years, says seasoned culinary consultant Chef Pradeep Tejwani, “it has been the norm that has dictated the food space — at least in the main food capitals of India and the up and coming ones. All but this last year.”

2020, he continues, “even though brief for the industry did give us an insight into many of the trends, which would take a step forward in ’21. Take food delivery for instance. While it was a model that was carved out of necessity and gained in popularity since the past five years; but the real value of having such kitchen-less outlets was established this year with restaurants awakening to the benefits of having a brand that would not just be an additional set of interesting menus, but could also cater to the changing demands of the clients without harping much on the resources.”

On ground reality, however, concurs senior culinary consultant and progressive cuisine expert Chef Nimish Bhatia, “having a brand or two like that only adds to the experience and offers a wide canvas to experiment for outlets that till last year were limited in scope because of their choice of a niche cuisine and approach.”

While both experts feel it is a trend to stay especially with the current status quo, another advantage of the mushrooming of ghost kitchen is the change of food play. From classic Tex-Mex to North Indian vegetarian to Bohri thaal and even Impossible meat or vegan-focused menu, the rise of these ghost kitchens has moved the dining scope from the conventional successful cuisine to one that is lesser explored to matching of unique flavours, including a fresh approach towards the good old fusion food. No, we aren’t talking of pink sauces or avant-garde flavours, says culinary revivalist Chef Sabyasachi Gorai, “but sensible food combinations that not only fit into the sensational but sensible eating. While the technique can be international or Indian, the ingredient and flavour play is something that is easy on the palate instead of the over-umaminess or fermentation with every food.”

The stress would be on looking at pairing popular food with the spices. Like chicken curry cooked with ghee roast or kadampuli in a jackfruit dish, for instance, continues Chef Gorai, who finds a continuous shift of diners towards sensible choices of food with the ‘charm’ around foraging or exploring new flavours and taste. Agrees Chef Bhatia, who believes that 2021 will be a constant search of interesting wellness food from our backyard and “from places that haven’t been explored culinarily like Odisha Kandhamal Haldi or Shillong’s ginger and fiddle ferns or the use of the chilli-garlic-coconut paste from South Goa.”

The inclination of diners towards wellness food isn’t, says Chef Tejwani, “limited to the restaurant space but has caused a sea change in the food aisle as well. While established brands have walked into the ‘nurturing space’ with a product line that continues to advocate the goodness of Ayurveda, to start-ups that have gone into carbon foot-printing their products, to celebrities investing in plant-based companies as a sustainability solution.”

For brands, however, says culinary specialist Chef Vikas Seth, “the new consciousness among diners and companies has resulted in the creation of smart menus, which are deciding shorter with more specials, but allow chefs the scope to play around with new ideas and new ingredients or even blend the two.” Chef Seth, who has reaped the benefits of a shorter menu smartly executed, calls it the best way to “zero wasting as it means lesser prep and sustainable cooking without losing on the dining experience.”

A shorter menu, he says, “isn’t just cost-effective, it also allows you the liberty to introduce specials that can often crank up a diner’s experience.”

After all, concludes Chef Seth, “it would be an era of travelling with your plate and the best way is to discover the muses within.”