The magic of medieval Nuremberg

Nuremberg is known as the staging ground of one of the most distinctive Christmas markets in Germany but even without the tinsel and shimmer, carousel and hand-crafted angels, it is a treat any time of the year, writes Sonia Nazareth

Nuremberg old town. PHOTOS BY AUTHOR

The city of Nuremberg — the undeclared capital of the Roman Empire, the residence of a sequence of German kings, and a big daddy in the Industrial revolution — has long been a powerhouse. The city has also entered the collective unconscious as the staging ground of one of the most distinctive Christmas markets in Germany. Like a magic land from a fairy tale book, the Hauptmarkt or the central square in the old town is transformed every winter into a sea of sparkling light. The aroma of freshly-baked gingerbread, a veritable feast of handicrafts, a mini Ferris wheel and mulled wine, add a heart to arguably Germany’s most atmospheric Christmas market. But even without the tinsel and shimmer, carousel and hand-crafted angels, Nuremberg is a treat any time of the year.

Upon crooked, steep lanes, by covered bridges, a mini-empire of museums, castles, and shrines to the fine arts, offers an in-depth look at whatever subject catches your fancy. Offering rapture for my euro, the 48-hour Nuremberg card allows me free access to public transportation and entry to all permutation of museum spaces. The Imperial Castle complex that looms prominently over the old town is my starting point. Resplendent in its offerings and telling tales of life in the Middle Ages, are an elaborate Knights Hall, a Romanesque chapel, and a warren of royal chambers. Close on its heels is the German National Museum, the largest museum of culture in the German-speaking world. It leads one through 6000 years of European art, culture, and history, with objects as varied as gold coins from the bronze age to the oldest globe in the world.

No subject is unworthy of being the object of deep scrutiny in Nuremberg. There is, for instance, a space dedicated to Bratwurst, a type of German sausage. Myth, reality, serving traditions, and artisanal production of this smallest and most famous Bratwurst allow you to go as deep as you’d like into the story of a sausage. Far from being static portals of object viewing, each of these temples to culture brims with interactive exhibits and dynamic displays. As innovation goes, the Deutsches Museum punches above its weight because science fiction meets reality here with hands-on laboratories, podcasts on future-facing topics, and virtual reality trips.

Children are the new knights in this city and every cultural institution has an area dedicated to making exploration fun. For instance, the Albrecht Durer house where the Renaissance genius artist lived and worked has a walk-through led by “Agnes Durer” his wife, played by an actress. In the Deutsche Bahn Railway Museum, the world’s oldest railway museum, kids and adults alike can experiment with a train simulator or hop aboard a miniature railway for a panoramic sweep of rail history.

Another celebrated tradition in this city is toy making, which goes back to medieval times. Pewter figurines and tin toys have been made here for over 600 years. The Toy Museum illustrates through its remarkable collection, that toys are not always innocent, questions the value we attach to toys, and explores the ideals, attitudes, and educational function inherent in these objects, while showcasing the way toys have always been central to our existence, like the Egyptian wheeled-horse.

As much a triumph of culture for me is the ability of a place to not sweep the unsavoury parts of its past under a rug. In 1933, Hitler selected Nuremberg as the City of Nazi party rallies. Memorium Nuremberg Trials is home to “Courtroom 600”, the scene of the trials against the main perpetrators of the National Socialist regime. It is today a centre of introspection — detailing through an exhibition, the background and impact of the trials. The sites that have been left intact from National Socialist times, serve as a poignant reminder of the horrors of war and contain a pressing invitation to join the struggle for human rights.

The encouragement to create a just world order can be felt especially while walking along the Way of Human Rights. This monumental outdoor sculpture defined by a triumphal arch, lined by concrete pillars, and inscribed with articles from the General Declaration of Human Rights, was created by Israeli artist Dani Karavan.

On the streets, Nuremberg is as much a living museum. A city tour on a mini train through the old town provides an overview of the city’s energy and attractions. There’s a Gothic church spire, dramatic fountain, otherworldly bridge, or stone sculpture all across the town. The Gooseherd fountain is one of the best examples of German bronze renaissance sculpture. Among the most striking of bridges is a chained suspension bridge built across the Pegnitz River. The Hangman’s Bridge, constructed as a wooden footbridge in 1457, also attracts the travelling hordes.

As much as heritage structures are preserved, old traditions are nurtured. The Craftsmen’s Courtyard showcases old-fashioned trades, like gingerbread and toy making. Then there’s St John’s cemetery. Great sons of the soil like Albrecht Durer were buried here, beneath gravestones decorated with superlative flower displays and funerary monuments. These graveyards’ function is both literal and metaphoric as they confront us with the transitoriness of life.

At the end of three days here, I leave with gingerbread, and a deep appreciation for a place where justice is valued, heritage is nurtured, discursive debate encouraged, and society thrives in a free, engaging manner.