The sweet kernels of celebration

When it comes to Baisakhi, few dishes encapsulate the sense of gratitude and joy as meethe chawal — one of the finest showcases of Punjab’s culinary legacy, writes Vikas Seth

There is something inexplicably balmy and addictive about sweet rice — a globally made and loved dish that is known more famously as zarda, historically as chura, occasionally as kanika, and in Punjab, it is simply named meethe peeley chawal or gud ke chawal. Recognised by its sunflower yellow hue and the mild yet inviting aroma of cardamom, it remains one of the few dishes that not only defines Baishakhi, the harvest festival of Punjab where it is offered as a prasad, but also as one of the heritage dishes that has been passed from generation to another, with a few tweaks of course.

Growing up, I must confess, I wasn’t much fond of the dish that often made a brilliant pairing with chicken curry or kadhi. Phulkari Pulao looked like art on a plate thanks to the multitude of colours and fragrant rice and roh (sugarcane) ki kheer where the rice was gently bubbled with fresh sugarcane juice till the kernels would soak all the sweet goodness that whet my appetite, and for good reason.

While the former made for an unforgettable eye and bite experience, the latter was just the treat one needed to up the festive mood. And yet, when it came to Baishakhi, a day that marks some of the most significant historical events in the history of Punjab — the legendary Maharaja Ranjit Singh was crowned on the day, the Khalsa brotherhood was established on this day among others — nothing held kitchen superiority along with the undivided attention of the ladies of the house as the making of meethe peeley chawal. Fascinatingly, the fussing wasn’t about the expensive ingredients — unlike the Ain-i-Akbari version of the zarda, gud ke chawal or meethe peeley chawal that are today made with only sugar, needed very basic, seasonal items that included the local rice that was harvested around the time (short or long depended on the region you were in), sugarcane juice, cardamom, cashew nut, raisin and dry coconut. Interestingly, it was the use of dry coconut that set the Punjabi version of sweet rice apart from the rest of the variants pan India and the Middle East. But getting the ingredients of the right quality continues to be an exercise in planning and procurement. And that is one of the reasons why this rice dish holds such a prime place in the feast of Baishakhi. The other of course is ancestry.

While popular belief credits zarda, one of the many dishes to travel from Persia to India, as the muse for meethe peeley chawal, in my humble opinion, it isn’t. meethe chawal, much like kheer or khirsa, has an ancestry that dates to the early years of the Silk Route, a time when sweet, in the form of jaggery powder, became a popular tastemaker, and dishes were spun around the common love for the sweet taste. In fact, old trading accounts hail sweet preparations as the piece de resistance of the
culinary highway. Sugar then was a much sought after commodity globally, and India, especially the sugarcane growing undivided Punjab was privy to not just the know-how of making sugar (bura of jaggery) but also had the mastery of turning it into one of the more fascinating delicacies like kheer and sweet rice — each with its distinct taste, texture and palate appeal. What prompted the culture of sweet rice was also our ancient texts like Charak Samhita which has dedicated reams to deciphering the curative nature of rice, especially in its sweet form and how it contributes to helping one sleep better, rev up digestion, bust the stress and even nourish, value the dish next only to kheer that is known for its curative properties.

Rice, as per the old wellness tome, is considered to be one of the healthiest ingredients — it is light, cooling and easy to digest. One of the reasons that ancient science has heavily invested in rice dishes. Case in point meethe chawal. The very composition of it is a thoughtful act of nourishing.

While the rice used — which traditionally was an indigenous variety of fragrant rice — at the base worked to help the digestion, ghee, cashew nut and coconut that help bring the stress level down by supplying the body with the necessary fat and raisin giving the necessary vitamin C boost to re-energise the body — all that in a single bite. The instant burst of energy calms the Vatta that repairs and heals the digestive system while keeping a steady supply of energy. This perhaps explains why meethe chawal since time immemorial has been a significant part of most religious functions including yagnya. In fact, much like roh ki kheer, meethe chawal too has its many versions — each reflecting not just the region it came from, its produce but the influences as well.

Regions that were in closer proximity to Dehradun preferred the long grain, while those on the culinary highway had the choice of both short and long grain. Likewise, was for the add-ons when it came to giving the chawal a gourmet twist. Regions that were on the culinary highway periphery (read: the Grand Trunk Road) upped their offering with dry fruits and saffron, while those further inside used the bright colour of turmeric to give the rice its distinct yellow character. But few things were sacrosanct like the medium of cooking which was always with ghee and high-fat milk — cows were fed jaggery to ensure that the milk had that sweetness — the use of desiccated coconut to give that contrasting sweetness and texture, and the tempering of the warm trio of cardamom, clove, and cinnamon. In fact, even today, sweet rice, which takes a copious amount of melted jaggery, or sugar is made in a deg (a deep bottom vessel), preferably the hand-beaten metal one. It needs constant monitoring unless one has mastered the art of making the dish and knows by the aroma that rice is ready.

The brilliance with which the rice assimilates the sugar and yet can elevate the flavours of cardamom, saffron and nuts is what makes meethe peeley chawal, a magical dish come to life. Of course, over the years, the dish too has transformed thanks to the different influences that erstwhile Punjab was privy to, thanks partly to trade, which added dry fruits to the dish and kesar.

(The author is a seasoned chef.)