Under the Bo tree

Trailing along the footsteps of Buddha feels liberating, noble and enlightening, writes Shoma Abhyankar

The ruins of Nalanda Mahavihara, a World Heritage Site. PHOTOS BY AUTHOR

This stone establishes the historical evidence of Buddha’s birth around 642 BCE, explains archaeologist Basanta Bidari, pointing towards the inscribed marker stone that he and his team discovered during excavations at Lumbini near Mayadevi temple. We crane our necks over heads and shoulders of Buddhist devotees that throng the shrine, to catch a glimpse of the marker stone that now lies carefully encased under a plexiglass floor in the temple. I was at Lumbini, one of the four most revered pilgrim destinations for Buddhists, travelling on the special Buddha Circuit Tourist Train started by IRCTC (Indian Railways Catering and Tourism Corporation) for Buddhist pilgrims and tourists. The train begins its journey in New Delhi and covers some important destinations associated with Buddha’s life. It takes a break near the Nepal border and a coach then transports the passengers to Lumbini across the India-Nepal border for a visit to the shrine.

Lumbini

Siddharta Gautama was born in Lumbini, Nepal, to King Shuddhodana of Sakya clan. As the legend goes, Buddha’s mother Mahamaya rested in the garden as the time of giving birth neared. She took a ritualistic bath in an ancient pond or pushkarini in the garden just before Gautama was born. A cluster of small brick votive stupas and the renovated pond near the Maya Devi temple in the Lumbini garden stand testimony to the story.

Bodhgaya

It is believed, that the branch of the same Peepal tree, known as Bodhi tree, where Buddha attained enlightenment, exists at the Mahabodhi temple in Bodh Gaya. As Buddha sat in rigorous penance under the tree, a village woman Sujata, offered him a bowl of kheer. Buddha had his realisations and broke his fast with Sujata’s offering. A small Sujata temple and a stupa dedicated to Sujata stands in her memory on the outskirts of Bodh Gaya.

Sarnath

Ten kilometres from Varanasi is Sarnath, another important pilgrimage centre. After attaining enlightenment, Buddha gave his first-ever sermon, the Dhammachakkappavattana Suta explaining the four noble truths at Sarnath. Remains of a large stupa and viharas are pieces of evidence of a bustling cultural town.

Rajgir

Buddha spent several months meditating and preaching at Gradhakuta in Rajgir, also popularly called Vulture peak.

Nalanda

Not far from Rajgir are the ruins of the ancient university of Nalanda. Gautama Buddha is said to have delivered sermons close to Nalanda.

Shravasti

Buddha spent four months of his life here preaching about the four noble truths.

Kushinagar

Kushinagar was lost to time until excavations by Alexander Cunningham brought it back to life in the 19th century. It is here that Buddha attained mahaparinirvana after his death.