Distinct flavours of Karnataka

Not many people know that apart from its beautiful palaces, Mysuru is also famous for a fruit — the humble banana. These bananas even had royal patronage.

Similarly, Kodagu is famous the world over for its coffee and the coastal districts of Udupi and Dakshina Kannada are synonymous with seafood.

But what of the rest of Karnataka?

Every region in the state is known for certain unique agricultural produce. And in order to give these locally produced items a fillip, the ‘One District, One Product scheme’ (ODOP) has been launched.

One product that is extensively produced and best represents a district has been selected from each of the 30 districts.

This scheme, which comes under the ‘Pradhan Mantri Formalisation of Micro Food Processing Enterprises’, seeks to provide financial, technical and business support to enterprises in the food processing sector.

“One can avail 35% credit-linked capital subsidy of the eligible project cost with a maximum ceiling of Rs 10 lakh per unit under the scheme,” says B Shivaraju, Managing Director, Karnataka State Agricultural Produce Processing and Export Corporation Ltd (KAPPEC), the nodal agency for the scheme in the state.

As part of the scheme, selected farmers and enterprises will be given training for value addition, as well as provided with marketing and branding support.

While most of the products selected under the ODOP are agricultural, the list also includes bakery products from Bengaluru Urban, poultry products from Bengaluru Rural and marine products from Dakshina Kannada and Udupi.

Spices of history (Chikkamagaluru and Uttara Kannada)

As the spices from the country made their way to the kitchens in Europe, the Europeans, in turn, set out looking for the shortest maritime route to India.

Interestingly, Karnataka too had a connection with this famed spice trade of the ancient world.

“Karnataka’s spices would be sent to Kerala and Bombay, from where it would be shipped to different parts of the world, as Karnataka didn’t have a proper port of its own,” says Vidyashankar, former deputy director of Spices Board of India.

Black pepper, cardamom, cinnamon, clove and nutmeg are extensively cultivated in Chikkamagaluru and Uttara Kannada districts, and these spice crops are mostly grown amongst other plantation crops.

“Karnataka is the largest producer of black pepper — the king of spices, in the country,” says Vidyashankar.

According to Shivaraju of KAPPEC, around 40% of India’s spices is exported and Karnataka is one of the big spice producing states in the country.

Bananas with a ‘royal touch’ (Mysuru)

Bananas

Mysuru is famous for the different banana varieties that are grown in the district. Robusta, elakkibale, nendra, poovan, dwarf cavendish, grand naine (G9) are the major varieties. The Nanjangud rasabale, which grows only in and around Nanjangud taluk, is especially famous. Known for its unique taste, aroma and high nutritional value, this variety even has a GI tag.

“Banana is a water-intensive crop. Mysuru is ideal for the cultivation of bananas as it is close to Krishna Raja Sagara Dam, which is the main source of irrigation in the district,” says K Ramakrishnappa, former additional director, Department of Horticulture.

Bananas have been traditionally grown in Mysuru and some varieties have also been patronised by the Mysuru royal family.

“The Nanjangud rasabale is offered to the deity at the Srikanteshwara Temple in Nanjangud,” says Ramakrishnappa.

The district has 13,000 hectares under banana cultivation and produces 2.4 lakh tonnes of bananas annually.

Red gram from the ‘dal bowl’ (Kalaburagi)

Toor dal. DH Photo​​​​​

Kalaburagi, a major producer of toor dal (red gram) in the state, is known as the ‘toor dal bowl’ of Karnataka.

“Toor dal is cultivated in around 70% of the agricultural land in the district,” says Rathendranath Sugur, joint director, Agriculture Department, Kalaburagi.

The red gram grown in Kalaburagi, commonly known as the ‘Gulbarga toor dal’ has high calcium and potassium content — mainly attributable to the mineral-rich black soil of the district.

Owing to its superior taste and aroma, the Gulbarga toor dal has a GI tag. This variety also takes less time to cook compared to the red gram grown in other regions.

Rathendranath says this kharif crop is most suitable to the dry conditions of the region.

The sultan’s figs (Ballari)

Figs

Believed to be introduced in the state in the 15th and 16th centuries by the Islamic rulers from West Asia, both fresh and dry figs have seen a steady demand in the market of late.

Historical records attribute the cultivation of figs in Karnataka to Tipu Sultan, who developed a fig orchard in Ganjam, near Srirangapatna.

“Figs require hot and dry climate to grow. It does not grow well in humid climates. Therefore, the agro-climatic conditions of Ballari is most suitable for the cultivation of this fruit,” says S V Hittalmani, former additional director, Department of Horticulture.

Ballari’s figs have brilliant shades, ranging from purple to chocolate brown, and are sweet. These fruits also have medicinal value and are a good source of energy. The area under cultivation of the fruit is presently limited to around 100 acres in Ballari, as commercial cultivation began only in the late 20th Century.

“Currently, we are importing figs and the government aims to reverse the trend by promoting its cultivation,” says Hittalmani.

Fish as food & livelihood (Dakshina Kannada and Udupi)

Marine products. DH Photo​​​​​

The coastal districts of Dakshina Kannada and Udupi are known for several varieties of fishes, some endemic to this region. The marine fisheries are not just a source of livelihood for fishing communities but a staple food as well.

“The ladyfish or kane is undoubtedly the most popular fish from this region. It is a scavenger fish and is found in estuarine waters. The ladyfish found here is unique in terms of taste and texture. It also does not have a bad smell,” says Naren Thimmaiah, a chef.

Black pomfret and kingfish, also known as surmai and seer fish, are the other popular varieties in this region. Sardine and mackerel are typical to this region. These fishes have a high demand in the international markets, which in turn results in shortage in the domestic markets.

“While the catch depends on natural factors, the government needs to focus on the logistics. Cold storage facilities and the supply chain need to be improved to increase the shelf life,” says Naren.

Coffee’s ‘foreign’ connection (Kodagu)

Coffee. DH Photo

The history of coffee in India dates back to the 17th century, when Baba Budan, a Sufi saint, is said to have planted seven coffee seeds in Baba Budan Giri in Chikkamagaluru. It is believed that he got the seeds from Yemen on the way back from his pilgrimage to Mecca. Coffee remained as a backyard crop for a long time. It was only in the early 19th century that the British started commercial coffee plantations in Kodagu, Chikkamagaluru and Wayanad in Kerala. The high elevation, cool climate and good rainfall in these regions were ideal conditions for growing coffee.

Today, coffee cultivation is integral to Kodagu district and it forms the backbone of the district’s economy.

Presently, Arabica (28,422 hectares, 17,100 MT) and Robusta (79,144 hectare, 90,075 MT) are the two main types of coffee grown in the district. Some estates also produce civet coffee from the coffee beans digested by civet cat. This is one of the most expensive coffees in the world.

Kodagu’s arabica variety has a GI tag as it is known for its distinct chocolaty flavour and aroma and has a high demand in foreign markets.

“Initially, arabica that was sourced from Yemen was grown in Kodagu. By 1860s, this variety was affected by coffee rust (a fungal infection) and white stemborer (a pest) and subsequently, people shifted to robusta, a more robust variety brought from Sri Lanka and Indonesia,” says George Daniel, deputy director, Coffee Research Sub Station, Kodagu.

Byadgi chilli’s brilliant hue (Gadag)

Byadgi chilli

Chillies are known for imparting heat to any dish but the Byadgi menasinakai (chillies) is best known for its beautiful colour.

They are commonly used in South Indian cuisine for the brilliant red colour they impart to the dish. The oleoresin extracted from Byadgi chillies is also used in the preparation of lipstick and nail polish.

“Byadgi chilli is originally from Byadgi taluk in Haveri district. That is how it got its name. It is now commonly grown in Gadag, Haveri and Dharwad districts,” says M B Patil, Professor at University of Agricultural Sciences, Raichur.

There are two varieties of the Byadgi: dabbi and kaddi. Byadgi dabbi is small, plump and has more seeds, whereas the kaddi type is gnarled, long and thin and has fewer seeds.

Byadgi chillies are drought-tolerant varieties. This rain-fed crop can be grown with other crops, especially cotton, in a mixed cropping pattern.

“Byadgi chillies are not just a source of livelihood but are integral to the way of life in these regions,” says Patil.