Peplum power

The retro silhouette is creating a buzz. Shilpi Madan asks designers how they are incorporating it in their collections

Many celebrities in India and outside have flaunted the peplum look this year. Actor Priyanka Chopra wore a black peplum gown at a Bulgari event a few months ago. Actor and entrepreneur Shilpa Shetty was spotted in a peplum corset. YouTuber Navya Naveli Nanda paired a peplum top with a flowy skirt. Hollywood star Emma Stone and Bollywood’s Alia Bhatt have also embraced the peplum style this season.

Tracing roots

Peplum originates from the Greek word ‘peplos’. It refers to a tunic composed of a wraparound folded cloth, cinched mid-waist. Greeks wore it in ancient times. Cut to 2024. Fashion designer Leena Singh of the Delhi-based label Ashima Leena is making peplum blouses and teaming them with traditional saris. “The peplum cut was popular in the Mughal era too,” she says, referring to long flowing ensembles from the period.

In vogue

UK fashion label J W Anderson and Scottish fashion designer Christopher Kane featured peplum in their fashion shows recently. Designer Tanvi Sethi of Torqadorn, Delhi, notes that a peplum top, dress , or jacket is a must-have this season. These pieces are quite versatile and go well with both the ethnic and Western look. “A constructed peplum draws the eye to the waist. Embellishments, sheer fabrics, and sequins can accentuate the look further,” she says.

This season, designer Saaksha Bhat of Saaksha & Kinni, Mumbai, has opted for subtle flares and softer materials for a gentler look. “In the peplum cut, we are also experimenting with varied prints and solid colours,” she shares. She has also used mirror trims, thread work, and metalwork with embroidered ‘doris’ to create peplum ensembles.

Pleats and gathers are the foundation of a peplum look. Tanvi notes that pleated chiffon and net fabrics are used to add flair to this cut.

“This season, we have tried new techniques such as fabric manipulation, colour blocking and laser cuts. Our latest collection features peplum cuts with box pleating, ruffles, and sequins. We have worked with lycra, tissue-silk blends, denim, nets, and satins,” she explains.

Fabric play

While slightly stiffer fabrics like silks, heavy georgettes, and heavy cotton are suited to make peplum outfits, Leena has also worked with crinkled chiffons and Chanderi silks this time. In her latest collection, she has created peplum blouses with different brocades and teamed them with dhotis.

Saaksha has worked with the peplum style extensively and experimented with various fabrics. “Structured fabrics like silk, brocade, and taffeta provide a perfect flair to peplum. For a softer, flowy look, we use chiffon, georgette, and crepe,” she says. In her current peplum projects, she is fusing different materials.

Mac Duggal is a fashion designer based in the US. “For luxurious and opulent styles, brocade and taffeta are the go-to options,” he notes.

In her past peplum collections, Leena has used tassels and winking stones to embellish and lend a sharper definition to the flare. “We are working on adding embroidery below the neck and creating off-shoulder and sleeveless versions of the peplum,” she says.  

“Short or elbow-length puff sleeves and full straight-cut sleeves also look chic in peplum outfits. A Chinese collar or a deep round neck in the front “creates a startling cut,” adds Leena.

Pair it right

Duggal says fitted trousers offer a professional look and wide-leg trousers lend a dramatic effect when worn with the peplum. He elaborates: “If the peplum is voluminous, pair it with slim-fitting bottoms. Conversely, wider-leg pants or skirts work well with a more fitted peplum. Playing with proportions for different body types is important. Likewise, you can pair a peplum top with high-waisted bottoms to make your legs look longer. If you have a short torso, consider a peplum dress or top with a high waistline.”

Designer Radhika Gupta says if you are petite, team your printed peplum tops with fitted jeans. If you have a pear-shaped body, pair them with flowy skirts, she recommends.

For people who have a lot of ethnic Indian outfits in their wardrobe, Saaksha’s suggestion would be to try pairing peplums with bottoms like churidars or lehenga skirts.

Dress up

The peplum looks flattering on people who are slender and of medium build. However, with clever styling, it can work well on all body types.

*For a low-key luxe look, wear a sparkly peplum top with relaxed white linen pants and flats.

*A long necklace works well with a peplum blouse and a sari or dhoti pants.

*Dangler earrings or a ‘baju band’ (armlet) can be worn with a peplum look. Choose jewellery that complements the neckline and fabric of the top or dress.

*A belt will help cinch the waist and accentuate your curves.

(Inputs from Leena Singh, Saaksha Bhat and Tanvi Sethi)

Colour scheme

According to designer Saaksha Bhat, the peplum cut looks stunning in jewel tones like emerald, ruby, and sapphire. “For a delicate look, pastel shades like blush pink, mint green, and lavender are perfect. Black, white, and beige are go-to colours if you want a classic look,” she adds.