‘Pho’rever love for Asian fare

Vibrant, fragrant, bold, and nuanced, Asian food transcends beyond wontons and noodles as it is a varied fusion of flavours, techniques, and ingredients moulded by centuries of history and evolution, writes Aslam Gafoor

For over a decade and a half, Joonie Tan has embraced Bengaluru as her home, yet she often finds herself yearning for the authentic tastes of her native Malaysia, particularly the beloved Nasi Lemak. “Everyone I talked to in Bengaluru or who knows that I’m Malaysian would tell me about their love for the cuisine,” she confides. This enthusiasm for Malaysian food among the locals motivated her to establish Kopitiam Lah, a restaurant aimed at filling the void of a dedicated Malaysian eatery in the city. While Japanese, Chinese and Thai cuisines have long dominated Bengaluru’s culinary landscape, lesser-known Asian cuisines such as Cambodian, Vietnamese, Malaysian, Korean, and Burmese have carved out their niches, offering a delicious glimpse into the diverse flavours of Asia.

One of the torch-bearers of this culinary shift is Phobidden Fruit, a Vietnamese restaurant that has enjoyed a loyal following for over 13 years. The brainchild of Prasanna Swamy, the restaurant is a testament to his enduring love for Southeast Asian cuisine. Swamy’s journey began during his undergraduate years in Sydney, where he frequented a family-run Vietnamese restaurant and fell in love with pho. “I didn’t have any idea then that I’d end up having a love affair with that bowl of goodness,” he recalls. Swamy transformed a rented garage in Indiranagar, Bengaluru into a thriving restaurant, drawing inspiration from his travels to Saigon and learning under a skilled chef there.

Similarly, chef Diep Vu Thi Ngoc, hailing from Vietnam, embarked on her culinary journey in India a few years ago with her restaurant, Hanoi, which aimed at introducing Vietnamese culture and cuisine to Indian diners. While the curtains closed on Hanoi, her latest labour of love, Suay carries on this narrative by crafting a modern space where coffee culture and community unite, alongside offerings of Vietnamese and Korean cuisine.

Burma Burma, co-founded in 2014 by childhood friends Ankit Gupta and Chirag Chhajer, showcases the rich culinary heritage of Myanmar, drawing a loyal following across Indian cities for its vegetarian menu and innovative non-alcoholic beverages. Gupta’s connection with Myanmar, inspired by his mother who grew up there, adds depth to the restaurant’s offerings. “My mother’s heirloom recipes and our extensive research trips across Myanmar inspired the idea of a speciality Burmese cuisine restaurant,” he shares.

Naveen Reddy, the founder of Khmer Kitchen, discovered his inspiration during a historic and architectural study tour of Cambodia. “The deep cultural and historical connection between India and Cambodia inspired me to delve into Khmer cuisine, leading to the creation of Khmer Kitchen,” Reddy shares, emphasising the shared heritage between the two regions. Krish Nayak, founder of Société Rangoon, drew inspiration from his culinary experiences in London and his passion for authentic Burmese food. With a background in restaurant management, Nayak embarked on a journey to bring genuine Burmese flavours to India.

The rise of these lesser-known Asian cuisines signals a positive shift in Bengaluru’s dining culture, reflecting a growing trend of culinary adventurism among the city’s residents.

Diners are increasingly seeking authentic and diverse food experiences, driven by travel, social media, and a desire for novelty and exploration. However, launching a restaurant featuring a lesser-known cuisine is not without its challenges, primarily in reaching the target audience. Nayak points out that while many associate Burmese food with Khow Suey, the cuisine is far more diverse and rich.

“Fortunately, the ever-experimenting people from Bengaluru do not mind trying something new,” he observes, emphasising the city’s openness to culinary exploration.

Tan, on the other hand, finds that introducing Malaysian cuisine, with its blend of Malay, Chinese, and Indian influences, has been less challenging than anticipated, thanks to its familiar flavour profiles. “The real challenge is educating the customer about the variety of dishes, presentation, and way of eating,” she notes. While the Western café culture is popular in India, Tan believes the time is ripe for introducing Malaysia’s unique Eastern coffee traditions to the local palate.

A recurring question is how authentic these cuisines remain when transported from their country of origin and how one balances maintaining the original flavours while catering to local tastes. Swamy offers a nuanced perspective, “authenticity concerning food is a loose term.” For him, authenticity involves adhering to the governing principles of the cuisine while acknowledging the historical influences on Vietnamese food, such as the French and Chinese. At Phobidden Fruit, the aim is to strike a balance between traditional flavours and local tastes.

As Burma Burma celebrates its 10th anniversary, Gupta explains, “We consciously chose to keep the menu vegetarian.” Despite initial concerns, particularly in regions where non-vegetarian cuisine is preferred, the restaurant has captivated customers with its authentic flavours in dishes such as Samosa Soup, Tea Leaf Salad, WA Potato, and Oh No Khow Suey. “People come for the flavours of Burmese cuisine and don’t miss the non-vegetarian options.” Led by chef Ansab Khan, the culinary team has conducted extensive research trips across Myanmar to discover migrant food cultures, street food, and traditional homestyle cooking. Similarly, Tan and her team, including head chef David D’Souza, have made extensive research trips to Malaysia to ensure authenticity while catering to local tastes. “I want the team at Kopitiam Lah to understand authentic Malaysian cuisine as I do,” she says. The menu, featuring dishes like Classic Kaya Toast and Char Kuey Teow, is curated by chef consultant Darren Teoh, a two-Michelin-star chef from Kuala Lumpur, balancing traditional hawker-style treats with modern Malaysian dining techniques.

(The author is a Bengaluru-based hospitality professional, food lover and travel enthusiast.)