Glory of Gwalior

Having been ruled by one dynasty after another, this city is keeping the past alive in every sense, writes Garima Verma

Looking out of the window, catching my breath, I wondered if the laddoos were worth the nerve-racking moments of almost missing the train. I had been pressed for time; having succumbed to the charms of Gwalior one after another. Still, the friendly staff at our hotel had made me feel like it would have been a sin to come to the city and miss Bahadura’s laddoos. I had given in and faced the universal law of ‘when you are late the whole world conspires to add to the agony’.

I could not wait any longer for the verdict. I took down the box from the luggage shelf above and popped half a laddoo in my mouth. And, in that enlightening moment, I knew what it meant to find heaven in a mere morsel bite. With this melt-in-the-mouth sweet delight, Gwalior had me captivated all over again.

Jai Vilas Palace.

A fort among forts

The love affair had started the moment I ascended the Gopachal Hill. The giant rock-cut statues of Jain tirthankars, standing in a line, dating back to the seventh century, tend to give you a peek into the enormity of history on the hill. On top of it sits in the shadow of its former grandeur self — Gwalior Fort.

An object of many a kings’ envy for being virtually unscalable, it has stood witness to many battles, love stories, musical eras and sombre times since centuries, perhaps as back as the third.

One among its many yearners was Babur who captured it in the early 16th century and is believed to have described it as ‘the pearl in the necklace of the forts of Hind’.

Still, it couldn’t keep his army from defacing the structures in and around.

Despite having passed through many hands, some having treated it with love and some with abuse, its walls still have the royal blue dominating the earthiness of sandstone.

If Man Singh Palace’s high domes, carvings, mosaics, and latticed windows are for romantics, the hidden architectural gems — the indigenous ways of communication, recreation and climate moderation invoke awe in all.

All for love

Among many of other Gwalior Fort tales, the one of Man Singh Tomar and Mrignayani stand out, as does the monument still standing as its symbol — Gujari Mahal.

Legend has it that king Man Singh got smitten by the beauty and bravery of Mrignayani during one of his hunting expeditions.

As he wooed her to become his ninth queen, the Gujar girl put some conditions of her own.

She refused to share the royal palace with other queens and demanded her own, hence the tetragonal Gujari Mahal. She demanded constant water supply from the village river Rai, and wanted to be at king Man Singh’s side in every battle.

Saas bahu or Sahastrabahu temples.

Musical notes

The place that holds a central spot in the heart of India also boasts of a crucial seat in its musical map. Gwalior Gharana is not only the oldest in Hindustani styles of music but also one to which most of the classical Indian music styles can trace their origin to.

Baijnath Prasad, popularly Baiju Bawra, who found patronage under Man Singh, with Mrignayani becoming his disciple, could light oil lamps by singing Raag Deepak, make it rain with Raag Megh Malhar and make spring come early and inspire flowers to bloom with Bahar Raag. Another disciple of Swami Haridas and perhaps a more famous name from the Gwalior school of music during that time was Tansen, who became one of the nine jewels in Akbar’s court.

There are many versions of these two contemporaries coming face to face in a musical contest; the 1952 Bharat Bhushan, Meena Kumari starring Baiju Bawra not only depicts the same quite well with the lead character triumphing by melting a marble slab but also introduces you to many raags.

Modern magnificence

There might be many places reminding one of many bygone eras, the grandeur of Gwalior, however, still and completely lives on in Scindias’ Jai Vilas Palace. Patterned on the palace of Versailles, this 19th-century opulence in white is a live lesson in Italian, Corinthian and Tuscan architectures.

It is the items filling the floors, however, which take your breath away.

The chandeliers get redefined when you catch the sight of probably the biggest pair in the world.

It is believed that to check the strength of the roof as to whether it can withstand a combined weight of seven tonnes, a dozen elephants were made to go round and round on it for a few days.

The Viennese chandeliers with almost 250 lamps each make it a Durbar Hall any palace would wish for.

And, the list is far from over!

FACT FILE

Twin temples

Saas Bahu Temple was built by King Mahipal of Kachchapaghata dynasty in the 11th century. The twin temples are dedicated to Lord Vishnu and Lord Shiva and are specimens of rare architectural finesse

Architecture

Teli Ka Mandir is another gem in the Gwalior Fort complex. Standing tall at about 100 feet, it wonderfully blends north Indian and Dravidian temple architectures.

Food

If poha centres are the reason for which Gwalior wakes up early, the namkeen and gajak shops are to be blamed for visitors carrying back more bags than they came with.