Towering over London

Sometimes it’s just about how well you are told a story that makes a blackbird in a cage or the idea of a polar bear on a leash swimming in the Thames so attractive, writes Bhumika K

If you are a first-time visitor to London and a history buff, you will be overwhelmed by all there is to discover and learn. The Tower of London, a concentric-ringed grand castle and fortress from the 11th Century, figures prominently on the “must see” list and can be a great escape from being ensconced in London’s myriad museums.

For one, The Tower of London offers great scope for complex and gruesome storytelling — there’s a grand mix of romance, bloody beheadings, the tragic life of Anne Boleyn, kings, wars, betrayals, prison, torture, the Gunpowder Plot, crown jewels, exotic animals, the royal armoury and mint, unearthed bones and ghosts! In short, it’s a one-stop wonder that gives a great introduction to the country’s colourful past. While you could spend a whole day and still not see everything in this sprawling 12-acre site, here is a list of five things you mustn’t miss at The Tower of London. Do check their official site https://www.hrp.org.uk/tower-of-london for details of daily events and open-air performances. Entry tickets are priced at 23 Pounds (approximately Rs 2,037.77) online.

Yeoman warder at the Tower of London

The Yeomen Warder tour

The moment you hear The Yeomen Warders are called ‘Beefeaters’, given our current context in India, it really piques your interest! These personal bouncers or bodyguards of kings across generations, dressed in their large top hats and red and navy blue coats, are drawn from the armed forces of the country. They later became the guards of The Tower of London, especially the royal jewels (they are also the privileged residents of the Tower now). In their modern-day avatar, they offer fun walking tours of the Tower, telling wicked and engaging stories, dripping with British sarcasm and wry humour.

The story behind their nickname, though, may be disappointingly simple — they could eat unlimited amounts of beef from the king’s table! Make this tour the first thing you do at the Tower, to have an overview. Join the crowd around them for the every half-hourly free tour that comes with your entry ticket, and be taken around the Tower’s most strategic points, especially the concluding point at the gory Royal Chapel which is otherwise not open for visitors. Yes, the Yeomen let you take selfies with them at the end of the tour!

Wire sculpture baboons dot the tower.

The royal menagerie

One of the first things that catch your eye at the Tower is these scattered beautiful wire sculptures of animals by artist Kendra Haste. You are introduced to one of them on the Yeoman tour — the famous Polar Bear gifted to Henry III — allowed to go fishing in the neighbouring Thames on a leash! Follow the other sculptures — the baboons, lions, and elephant — to discover tales of the royal menagerie, filled with “exotic” animals like ostriches, tigers and African Barbary lions gifted by royalty; its a great section for kids. The audio tour, the many interesting factoids and articles posted on the walls, and the interactive displays give an insight into the royal zoo started in the 1200s and one that thrived within this fortress for a good 600 years. Many of these animals, almost 150 of them, later became the founding animals of the modern London Zoo (one of the oldest zoos in the world) when they were moved out in the 1800s. We discovered that the three lions that were part of this menagerie became the symbol of English kings in the Medieval ages, and is now the logo of the English football team as well! Who knew these crazy connections!

Polar bear sculpture by artist Kendra Haste.

The Crown Jewels & the Koh-I-Noor

This one is about mixed feelings and touches a raw nerve, for Indians especially, because of the demand for the return of the Koh-I-Noor diamond along with other Indian treasures taken away during Britain’s colonial rule in India. Of course the “it wasn’t looted, but gifted to Queen Victoria” argument notwithstanding, honestly, the diamond is a bit disappointing after years of hearing stories about it; moreover, Prince Albert had it cut down to its present size “to increase its brilliance”. The South African Cullinan diamond is far more impressive. Yet, it’s diabolically fascinating to see such lavish symbols of royalty and power — there are around 140 ceremonial objects, containing more than 23,000 precious stones — all valued at five billion pounds. They include the Imperial Crown of India (along with a sepia-tinted photograph of George V in India for the Delhi Durbar), The Sovereign’s Sceptre and Orb with the Cross, Queen Victoria’s small “widow crown”, the many swords and giant coronation spoon, royal robes and jewels, the Imperial State Crown. All this while your jaw drops, your eyes glint and gleam, and you are slowly whirred past these beauties on a travelator! No photos allowed.

Polar bear sculpture by artist Kendra Haste.

The Royal Armouries collection

For those fascinated by steel armour, (and even for those who are particularly not) head to The White Tower for a viewing of some of the shiniest metallic dresses that went into bloody wars.

Mounted on exquisitely carved wooden horses, these displays of body armour, equestrian armour, swords, shields, helmets, displays like the “Line of Kings” — are all great ways to observe the evolution of armoury over an entire millennium. This section also has an “armoury in action” interactive experience — where you can dress Henry VIII for battle (you really won’t know which part goes where and the ‘propah’ order, and you can get the digital Henry very angry!), shoot arrows and fire cannons, brandish a sword and ride simulated horses doing so!

The ravens that hold up the tower

In my school days we were told ravens are ominous and if we saw one, we were to do some cross-your-fingers-and-kiss them ritual to ward off bad luck! But, the Ravens at the Tower bring bad luck only in their absence! “If the ravens leave the Tower, the kingdom will fall…” goes the old superstition in London.

King Charles II started this ritual of keeping ravens at the Tower and these black-winged intelligent creatures that have been an integral part of tower history since 1880s. They have a Ravenmaster who cares for them. They are fed “blood-soaked biscuits” as a special treat. Six ravens are always supposed to be on premises, and they always have one extra…just in case. Because despite having their crucial feathers clipped to prevent them from flying too far off, some of the ravens have taken off in the past, one even landing, very strategically, at a pub! Watch out for Jubilee, Harris, Gripp, Rocky, Erin, Poppy and Merlina in their cages near the southern lawns of the Tower (check the Tower map) — one of them is famous for playing dead when she doesn’t get enough attention. They are large, with wingspans up to 1.5 metres sometimes. One ironic factoid we read on the spot — ravens gather in large flocks before they find their life partners and this gathering is called a “conspiracy” of ravens!