Unparalleled Udaipur

With its cultural and spiritual mélange, Udaipur's rustic allure is unmissable, writes Ranjita Biswas

Udaipur, the famed Lake City of Rajasthan, gets its name from Udai Singh II who founded it in 1568. The Maharana, as the kings of the Mewar kingdom were addressed, selected the place on the advice of a sage.

As legend goes, once on a hunting trip here, Udai Singh was told to build a city here. At that time, Chittorgarh was the capital of the Mewars but repeated attacks by the Mughals made the king decide to shift his headquarters to Udaipur. Surrounded by the lofty Aravalli Hills, lakes and forests, it was also less accessible to the invading armies.

A trip to Udaipur naturally starts with a visit to the fabulous City Palace, the seat of the assembly and living quarters of the kings. Though Udai Singh laid the foundation stone and built the original part of the palace as we see it today, subsequent rulers added more and more palaces, spanning over 400 years, ultimately numbering 11. But thankfully, these additions binding the different quarters did not spoil the edifice or the symmetry.

As we approach the City Palace, we see it rising majestically from the ground to a rock face. Many of the quarters of the royals have now been turned into museums; two of them are heritage hotels. These days, the huge royal courtyard at Manek Chowk is rented out as a wedding venue. Obviously, it doesn’t come cheap. Which is understandable, considering the aura and beauty of the palace.

Take for example, the treasures inside the mahal’s royal quarters. Udaipur in the Middle Ages, to the time when the British started colonising India, saw the peak of the Mewar kingdom. True, the Rajputs, belonging to the Sisodia clan, were brave warriors, and were also constantly at war with other clans as also with the Mughals. But they also paid attention to beautifying the city and the palace, and looking after the craftsmen, and their subjects.

Mirrorwork in the City Palace, Udaipur

Grandeur

Entry to the palace is through Tripolia Gate, a beautiful triple-arched marble gate. Next comes Rajya Angan, the royal courtyard. This is where the sage was believed to have met Udai Singh. The walls at the entrance of the museum are adorned with large paintings depicting the lifestyle of the Ranas — the assembly, processions, hunting expeditions , elephant fights, etc which were done from the 18th century to the mid-20th century. That traditional Mewar art fused with Mughal art, is evident in these paintings.

Miniature paintings are displayed at Krishna Vilas and Laxmi Vilas Chowk. They were often painted as gifts to the king, but in the process, they have captured the lifestyle of those days and are good referral points for historians and connoisseurs.

A replica of Maharana Pratap Singh’s horse Chetak is on display at the palace

An interesting display in the museum is a life-like replica of Chetak, the loyal horse of legendary Maharana Pratap Singh. Many stories are told about how Chetak saved his chief’s life many a time in the battlefield when he fought with the Mughals. A horse is also seen with an elephant’s trunk. It was a wartime ruse to confuse the elephants of the invading army.

Chini Chitrashala is full of delicate porcelain Chinese and Dutch ornamental tiles in blue.

The splendid art of glass and mirror work, a favourite with the nobles those days, dazzle your eyes at Sheesh Mahal (Palace of Mirrors) in a combination of grey and red glass and mirrors.

Another example of beautiful glass mosaics is at Mor Chowk (courtyard of peacocks). In the niches on the wall are seen three peacocks representing the three seasons of summer, monsoon and winter.

Among many other interesting nooks is Vani Vilas, perhaps the first special library in Udaipur. Kaviraj Shyamaldas wrote Veer Vinod, the history of Mewar, sitting in this enclave.

Surya emblem

A huge, ornamental sun emblem made of copper and polished with gold dominates the reception area. The Mewars prided themselves as descendants of the Sun God and the sun emblem is seen at different corners of the palace.

The light and sound show in the evening brings alive the story of the Mewars.

Pristine lake

City Palace gives a serene view of Pichola Lake. It’s actually an artificial freshwater lake. From the banks, you can see the pristine white marble Lake Palace, built in 1746. The palace is out of bounds for the general public as it is a hotel now.

It is also popular for film shoots like the James Bond film Octopussy.

However, the other palace on the lake, Jag Mandir is open to tourists on almost all days except when it is booked for private functions. Boating in the lake is also very popular.

Jagdish Temple near the City Palace is the biggest temple in Udaipur with intricately worked architecture that’s worth a visit. Udaipur’s old town is an interesting area to explore. Narrow lanes, where cars can’t ply, only autorickshaws do, wind up to reach the historic Gangaur Ghat on the banks of Pichola Lake.

On both sides are numerous shops selling typical Rajasthani jewellery and colourful handicrafts.

Near the Gangaur Ghat is Bagore ki Haveli which was built by the Prime Minister of Mewar in the 18th century. Its condition deteriorated with a drop in fortunes. After restoration, it has now become the seat of the Western Zone Cultural Centre of the Government of India.

In the evenings, the haveli runs an entertainment programme showcasing vibrant dance forms of Rajasthan.
The hall is not very big. During the tourist season, people may have to return disappointed. A good idea is to go a little early and join the queue or buy the ticket one day in advance.

A visit to the folk art museum Bharatiya Lok Kala Mandal gives an idea about the folk art forms and artefacts of the region.