A 'paan' India delicacy

If there is one eatable that has a pan-India appeal, it is the paan. The fascination for betel leaf extends across the country—from Banaras to Bengaluru, from Baroda to Bongaigaon! A paan shop is a fixture at every street corner.

The paan-wala has a regal presence. A ball of fragrance hangs around him like perfume. His compact shop is packed with varieties of betel leaves, dozens of silver containers, and copper pots. Wiping his hands on his red rag cloth, he is truly an artist. His canvas is the green betel leaf. He coats it with white calcium paste, adds a liquid in brown, and then mixes the colours to a light pastel shade. His dexterous fingers now get into action—a dash of power from one container, a sprinkle of coconut filings from another, and a shake from another dispenser. Who can resist this indulgence?

In earlier times, bus journeys were a great opportunity to observe a betel-leaf aficionado. Much like the cellphone is an integral part of a person’s make-up today, back then, it was the compact, silver, betel-nut case. Open the case, and it was stacked with betel leaves. The indulgent carefully pulled out a couple of leaves, shook off the water droplets, and peeled off the tiny leaf stalk. His fingers dug out some slaked-lime paste from a side compartment. With the betel leaf tucked in a ball to one side of his cheek, he had a changed personality! His face exuded an indescribable calm; he was at peace with himself and with the world at large!

Betel leaves have a prominent presence in South Indian weddings. They are allotted a prime spot in the wedding hall on a specially reserved table. Betel leaves are stacked on a silver tray with the satellite accompaniments of areca-nut sliced flakes and a bowlful of sugar crystal. By mid-day, the hoopla of the wedding celebration comes to a close. The last few guests linger in the hall and reach out for the betel leaves.

Betel leaves and conversation do not go together. As much as we would like to know if they need a ride back home or a cup of coffee, we get no proper answers. Their lips are stained bright red, and the juices threaten to overflow the sides of the mouth. All they can do is protrude their chins and gurgle incoherently in response! We leave them to complete their rumination!

The varieties of paan are many: beeda, maghai, and banarasi, but the relish is much the same. The indulgence in betel leaf is truly a connoisseur’s pursuit, where sight, smell, taste, and aftertaste all intermingle to make it such a sublime experience!