Paneer Predicament | A cheesy crime on vegetables

With a culinary landscape as diverse as India’s, one cannot help but wonder why paneer, a dairy product, has secured its throne as the go-to ‘vegetable’. Whether it's soaring high in-flight catering or gracing the menus of upscale restaurants or the routine house parties or corporate canteens, paneer seems to have carved out a cheesy empire of its own.

One might ask, is paneer the vegetable superhero India deserves, or just the one it can't seem to let go of? With a myriad of local and seasonal vegetables at its disposal, why does the culinary world continue to bow down to this dairy heavyweight?

Perhaps paneer's rise to fame lies in its ability to adapt to any flavour profile, like a culinary chameleon changing colours. It's the Houdini of the vegetarian realm, magically appearing in curries, kebabs, and even salads, leaving us to question whether it's a versatile ingredient or just plain sneaky protein.

Is it a conspiracy among chefs, a clandestine pact to declare paneer as the vegetarian de jour, leaving other vegetables in the dust? After all, when was the last time you saw a chef proudly proclaiming, ‘Tonight's special: Bhindi business or Teasing Tomatoes!’?

Udupi restaurants and quick-service family establishments across India have made paneer a culinary mainstay for several reasons. A dosa now comes accompanied by paneer masala, and even the health-conscious khandvi is not immune, featuring a stuffing of grated cabbage, carrots, and paneer. We have outlandish dishes that seem to be a creative way to murder authentic recipes — tastebuds be damned and singed. Be it paneer butter masala schezwan pav bhaji to paneer chilly dry masala dosa, our culinary skills seem to be doing word-building blocks instead of tasty cooking.

Must paneer be the perennial star of the show, or can we make room for the unsung heroes of the vegetable kingdom? It's high time chefs break free from the paneer-prison and explore the untapped potential of India's rich array of local produce.

It seems that at most Indian weddings and corporate canteens, the paneer phenomenon takes centre stage, almost as if it's the universe's way of playing a cosmic prank on vegetarians. It's like, ‘Oh, you want vegetables? Here, have some paneer instead.’

Vegetarians, brave souls that they are, venture into these banquets and canteens, hoping for a veggie bonanza, only to be greeted by the ubiquitous paneer, masquerading as the vegetable messiah. It's like asking for a rainbow and getting a single colour — orange, paneer orange.

Paneer has attained widespread popularity and is now a ubiquitous presence, often considered an essential component of celebratory meals. Especially in instances where a predominantly non-vegetarian household hosts vegetarian guests, paneer tends to be perceived as a substitute for meat-centric dishes.

Perhaps it's time we initiated a vegetable rebellion, demanding a more diverse and honest representation on our plates. After all, vegetarians deserve more than a paneer-induced déjà vu at every dining event.

As self-proclaimed vegetarian-by-choice, our culinary adventures in the skies often feel like a comedic saga of paneer persuasion. I find myself in a perpetual debate with flight attendants, explaining that my herbivorous commitment extends beyond just paneer. Then, we are asked, ‘Are you a vegan?’! The struggle is real, and so is the humour, as we navigate the skies, determined to find a vegetarian haven that doesn't involve a cheesy conspiracy.

The lines between vegans, vegetarians, and the paneer-inclined often blur, creating a gastronomic maze. It's time for paneer to take a gracious step back in Indian vegetarian recipes, giving a nod to the kaleidoscope of vegetables that paint our culinary canvas. As the richness of India's diverse landscapes unfolds, the tribute to local produce becomes imperative. A symphony of seasonal vegetables, each with its unique flavour, texture, and story, awaits its turn in the spotlight.

Thanks to the marvel of cold chains, we now live in a world where seasonal doesn't necessarily mean scarce. With vegetables available year-round, chefs have an expansive palette to play with, creating dishes that showcase the true essence of India's agricultural abundance.

Presenting paneer as the perennial vegetable substitute is not just a culinary shortcut; it's a case of dishonest cooking that does a disservice to patrons expecting genuine variety. The next time you're dining out and find yourself face-to-face with yet another paneer creation, remember: there's a world of vegetables waiting to be discovered.

(Kalyani Srinath is a food and nutrition professional. X: @TrueBlueAqua)

(Srinath Sridharan is a policy researcher and corporate adviser. X: @ssmumbai)

Disclaimer: The views expressed above are the author's own. They do not necessarily reflect the views of DH.