Makhana’s Gold

Anurag Mallick & Priya Ganapathy take a deep dive into the marshes of Bihar to understand the world’s recent fascination with the golden nugget makhana or fox nut

Makhana Bhel

Lotus seeds & peas curry

Long before it came packaged as an exalted gourmet snack, the humble phool makhana led a low profile life of relative obscurity in the marshy ponds of Bihar. Also known as fox nut or lotus seed, nearly 90% of the world’s makhana produce comes from Bihar, specifically, the nine districts of Darbhanga, Madhubani, Sitamarhi, Katihar, Purnea, Kishanganj, Araria, Saharsa and Supaul.

Having been born in Darbhanga with an ancestral home in Supaul, makhana was never a big deal while growing up. We used to have it as an evening snack, lightly roasted in ghee and tossed in sendha namak (rock salt) and golki (pepper). Sometimes it would be added to vegetable curries. On special occasions, it would be fried in ghee, coarsely broken into pieces and made into a kheer or sweet porridge. Since it wasn’t exactly a grain, it was regarded as sattvic food that could be consumed during upvaas (fasts) at festivals like Navratri or Chhatth.

Cultivation of the crop is deemed so important to Bihar that there’s a dedicated Research Centre for Makhana in Darbhanga under ICAR-RCER (Indian Council of Agricultural Research-Research Complex for Eastern Region).

So what is it really?

The Prickly Waterlily (Euryale ferox) is a perennial plant native to southern and eastern Asia, and the only surviving member of the genus Euryale. The genus is named after Euryale, the mythical Greek Gorgon whose hair was made of live venomous snakes like her more famous sister Medusa — hence, it is also known as Gorgon plant. Like the thorny plant, both inhabited murky waters! Usually classified under the water lily family Nymphaeaceae, the species is regarded as a distinct family of Euryalaceae; unlike other water lilies, the pollen grains of Euryale has three nuclei. The floating leaves are large, round and wrinkled, green on top and purplish on the underside measuring up to three feet across, with a leaf stalk attached to the centre of the lower surface. The leaves, stems and flowers are covered in sharp prickles. The plant produces bright purple flowers and starchy white edible seeds. The seeds can be eaten raw after drying but are often roasted or fried, which causes them to pop like popcorn. The plant grows best in places with hot, dry summers and cold winters, which pretty much sums up the weather in Bihar. Nearly 15,000 hectares in Bihar are dedicated to the cultivation of makhana.

Mostly grown by the Mallah or fishermen community whose women are usually engaged in makhana popping. Cultivated in stagnant waters of lowland ponds and wetlands of Bihar as a food source for centuries, the plant is widespread from northeast India (it is known as thangjing in the hill tracts of Manipur) to China (where it’s called Qian Shi), Japan, Korea and parts of eastern Russia.

Its earliest recorded use was found at Gesher Benot Ya’aqov in Israel, among artefacts of the Acheulean culture dating back nearly 7,50,000 years. Archaeological finds indicate that Euryale Ferox was a frequently foraged wild food source during the Neolithic period in the Yangtze region, and remains a key ingredient in Cantonese soup.

It is commonly used as lotus seed paste, a filling in Chinese pastries and mooncakes during the Mid-Autumn festival and Japanese desserts. Fresh lotus seeds are sold in the plant’s cone-shaped seed heads and eaten by cracking the individual seeds and removing the rubbery shell. Dried lotus seeds must be soaked in water overnight before use. They can then be added directly to soups and congee or used in other dishes. Another common Chinese snack, especially during Chinese New Year, is crystallised lotus seeds, made by drying lotus seeds cooked in syrup.

The elaborate process of harvesting makhanas from their thorny lair and subsequent processing makes it a labour-intensive crop. Which explains why a kilogram of makhana could cost nearly a thousand rupees! Since it is farmed without using any fertiliser or toxic pesticides, it is hailed as an organic herbal.

A wonder food

For all the hoopla, makhanas have a pretty neutral, almost characterless taste. You might think you’re biting into foamed thermocol… but its neutrality is an asset, for it easily takes on any flavour you add to it! What makes it such a wonder food that a plethora of brands have popped up extolling its virtues — Makhanawala’s, Nutty Fox, Too Yum, Wonderland, Sattviko, Mr Makhana, Nummy and even Haldirams? Available in flavours as diverse as wasabi, mint, peri-peri, cheese, turmeric, tomato, jalapeño, Himalayan salt, Bombay Chaat, chocolate and caramel, makhana is being billed as the next big thing after popcorn.

For starters, it is low in cholesterol and fat with high magnesium and low sodium content, which makes it perfect for people with high blood pressure, heart diseases and obesity. The low-calorie count makes it an ideal healthy snack for in-between meals and weight loss. Makhanas are gluten-free, protein-rich and high in carbohydrates; the low glycemic index makes them perfect for diabetics. They contain a natural flavonoid called kaempferol — also present in coffee — that helps prevent inflammation and ageing. The anti-ageing enzyme in these seeds helps repair damaged proteins. The seeds have been used in traditional Chinese medicine and Ayurveda preparations for over 3,000 years, as it apparently alleviates vata and pitta doshas, prevents anaemia and has high antioxidant properties.

According to Ayurveda, fox nuts have astringent properties that benefit the kidneys. Ayurvedic and Unani medicine believe it has aphrodisiac properties. Simply put, it is the proverbial ‘Food of the Gods’.

Makhana is part of the socio-cultural fabric of the Mithilanchal region and plays an important role in every ritual from birth to death, wedding to godbharai (traditional baby shower), fasts and festivals to yagnas and havans.

Among the people of Mithila, makhana is central to the Kojagra festival, celebrated for newly married couples on Ashwin Purnima, the full moon day in the Hindu month of Ashwin (Sep-Oct) when makhana and paan (betel leaves) are distributed. There’s a popular saying in Maithili that mentions Mithila’s cultural icons: Pug pug pokhar, maachh, makhaan Madhur boli, muski, mukh paan Ee theek Mithilaak pehchan (A pond at every step; fish and makhana; Sweet speech, a smile, a mouthful of paan; This is the true identity of Mithila!)

In December 2021, the Geographical Indications Registry (GIR) accepted the plea to rename Bihar Makhana as ‘Mithila Makhana’, granting it a GI tag. In a unique initiative that gives a fillip to the ‘Vocal for Local’ mantra, the Postal Department in Bihar began stocking and couriering Mithila Makhana from last year. Homegrown FMCG company Mithila Naturals has nearly 40 products on offer — six varieties of phool makhana, four types of makhana kheer under the brand Madhur Bhog, eight flavours of roasted makhana snacks under the brand Laba and assorted pickles. As its popularity soars from the depths of murky lakes to the skies, makhana sure seems to have come a long way, seeking its spotlight as food gold.