Nagaland, an off-roader's paradise

With its beautiful and well-preserved forests and landscapes, Nagaland is quite enigmatic. An off-roading experience here is all about discovering some uncharted and unexplored destinations, writes Vissa Venkata Sundar

Kapamodzu hilltop view with rolling hills in the backdrop

Lake Shilloi is a natural lake in Nagaland

Nagaland is a mysterious and mystical state. It has some difficult terrain and roads, as well as beautiful, well-preserved forests and landscapes. The state is an off-road paradise and a dream come true for thrill seekers and adventurers.

Our off-road journey started in Dimapur, the state’s gateway and a well-connected city to the rest of the country by air, train, and road. Our convoy of 4x4s, comprising sturdy cars and powerful Gorkhas, travelled 70 kilometres through the capital city of Kohima to reach Kisama (12 km). The place hosts the world-famous Hornbill Festival, a ten-day event that celebrates Nagaland’s culture. It’s a sensory experience unlike any other, as we learn about the state’s and region’s fascinating customs, lifestyles, and delicacies.
After spending the night camping in Kisama, we travelled to Kapamodzu via Zapami, Pfutsero, and Zhavame passing through charming villages and lush landscapes along the route. The sunsets and bright night skies from Kapamodzu were spectacular.

As we approached the hill, we encountered a nearly impossible, steep ascent. We tried crawling up the incline, but our jeep stalled and skidded wildly, sending us rolling down the slope before coming to a halt. We had no choice but to keep going, and with a great deal of work and a full-throttle engine, we made it to the summit on the second try. As the jeep drove away, our bags became dislodged, strewn, and jostled by the occupants.

The peaceful beauty of the landscape stood in stark contrast to the difficult trek we had just completed to get there. We arrived just in time to enjoy the stunning sight of the sun setting below the horizon, casting a lovely orange and pink tinge on the sky. There are no Google Maps to help you navigate here. To navigate through this territory, one must rely on one’s own senses and wits. As the saying goes, “sometimes you find yourself in the middle of nowhere, and sometimes in the middle of nowhere you find yourself.” I’m reminded of the seclusion and freedom that come with being in an unfamiliar place.

Nagaland Tourism, in collaboration with Wander Beyond Boundaries (WBB), has curated several off-roading routes in the state to provide such hidden remote locations and terrain navigation. There’s even a guidebook and an app for first-time visitors and off-roading enthusiasts planning their expeditions into Nagaland.
The next morning, we set out on an exhilarating and long off-road journey to Lake Shilloi, a terrain that would put our endurance, patience, and alertness to the test.
The journey took us through forested areas until we reached a fork in the road — the left path led to Phor, while the right path took us to Lake Shilloi.
It sits on the Indo-Myanmar border and is Nagaland’s largest natural lake. It is a home for migrating birds and is flanked by the towering Patkai mountain range. Its inaccessibility makes it even more appealing in addition to offering visually magnificent and relaxing views. The entire route is characterised by rough terrain, hairpin curves, sand, mud, water-filled slushy paths, and steep slopes. Along the way, we met stony rocks, boulders, and gravelly paths. Navigating the route to Shilloi Lake is no easy feat, but the challenge adds to its allure. We headed to the final part of the off-roading excursion after enjoying the calming and mist-filled lake vistas and camping at night. We saw spectacular waterfalls cascading down the slopes, a swarm of mud-puddling butterflies ready to greet and interact, and innumerable wildflower blooms and cherry blossom trees along the way.

We made a brief stop in Laruri village, and headed to the main attraction of the day, Chezami village, known for its weaving, before continuing to Chakabama for the night camp, our final base before heading back to Dimapur. We wandered around Chezami, captivated by the craftsmanship of the locals. From intricately patterned shawls to handcrafted home décor items, the offerings of Chezami were truly captivating and remarkable.

The off-roading adventure was loaded with experiences, memories, and emotions. If you enjoy breathtaking scenery, extreme terrain driving to remote locations, and mud-splattered 4x4s, visit Nagaland an incredibly beautiful state with the most welcoming people.