Star power of star anise

This eight-pointed spice’s endearing and most visible legacy can be seen in cooking, as its popularity continues to spread in the eight cardinal directions, write Anurag Mallick & Priya Ganapathy

Honey cake with cheese cream topped with caramel sauce and garnished with kumquat slices, fresh rosemary and thyme sprigs, cinnamon stick and star anise

Mulled wine

Would Peking Duck or Braised Singapore Short Ribs be the same without it? Where else would pho, that Vietnamese noodle soup, get its rich flavour and depth from? Would biryani or masala chai taste the same without this spice? The star power of star anise is such that it is one of the five key ingredients in traditional Chinese five-spice powder. If Eastern India has its panch phoran, China has its five-spice. Along with clove, cinnamon, Szechuan pepper and fennel, it is star anise that provides a characteristic zing to the magical Oriental spice blend.

Used widely across the subcontinent and Asia, star anise is an important ingredient in Indian, Malay, Indonesian and Chinese cuisines. The Chinese name for it is bajiao, literally ‘eight horns’ and they believe that an intact star with more than the normal eight points is auspicious and brings good luck. Each boat-shaped follicle contains a polished, brittle pea-sized seed, though the casing is packed with more flavour. Its synonym badian or French badiane is believed to be a derivation from badiyan, Persian for fennel or anise. Its flavour is similar to anise and its stellar shape made it popular as ‘star’ anise. In India, we call it chakra phool (wheel flower).

What we consume is the star-shaped pericarp of the fruit of Illicium verum, a medium-sized evergreen tree of the magnolia family, native to northeast Vietnam and Southwest China. Verum means true or genuine, to differentiate it from other species and Illicium is derived from the Latin illicio, meaning to entice or seduce. The spice has surely seduced humanity for over 3,000 years. For a tree that grows really slowly and takes up to 15 years to produce fruit, the bountiful yield is well worth the wait. Once it starts fruiting, one can harvest the tree thrice a year for over the next hundred years! The green fruits are harvested before they ripen and sun-dried till it’s deep brown or rust coloured, giving it a parched, woody appearance.

The savoury-sweet flavour intensifies, with a slight cinnamon and clove taste and a shade of licorice. Star anise contains a large quantity of the chemical anethole, the same compound found in anise, making star anise 13 times sweeter than sugar. Because of its sweet, spicy flavour, star anise is used primarily as a sweetener in the west in puddings, cakes, breads, jams, syrups, cookies and dessert recipes! Star anise is a key ingredient in liquor production too, especially for the sweet herbal liqueur Galliano and has recently gained popularity in baking, as a less expensive substitute for anise.

Yet, people in the east have long perceived star anise’s ability to enhance the flavour of meat. Be it Chinese spare ribs or fish curries, it is simmered in soups, stews and casseroles, and best added whole to the braising liquid while poaching meats and fish or stewed apples or plums or for making roast chicken and duck. Star anise pairs really well with tomatoes and a single pod can transform the flavour of tomato-based curries, sauces or stews with warm, spicy undertones.

When powdered, it is a terrific spice rub for poultry or game. Star anise also makes a flavourful addition to tea and is used in the French recipe of vin chaud (hot mulled wine). Permeation in hot water extracts its full flavour and when steeped in coffee, it deepens and enriches the flavour.

The best part? The pods can be reused multiple times over!

The star in its whole form is not edible. One can take it out of the dish before serving or it can be left in, for aesthetic purposes, usually exploited in Instagram.

However, both the pods and seeds can be powdered and consumed, often used as a breath sweetener and in aiding digestion. Yet, seasoned cooks know that only a small amount of the strong flavoured spice is required. Too much can be a trifle overwhelming and turns the dish bitter.

In southern China, star anise’s virtues transcend the kitchen. The pods are used as a medicine as a natural remedy for sore throats and upset tummies, besides treating asthma, bronchitis, coughs, cold sores, flu, tooth decay, insomnia, bad breath, indigestion and even cancer. It builds the immune system and is a stimulant with diuretic properties. Its inherent sweetness lends it useful as a flavouring agent to mask the taste of bitter medicines and herbal teas. Star anise is the major source of the chemical compound shikimic acid, a primary precursor in the pharmaceutical synthesis of the anti-influenza drug Tamiflu. Besides medicine, the highly fragrant star anise oil is used in perfumery, soaps, toothpastes, mouthwashes and skin creams. Yet, the eight-pointed spice’s endearing and most visible legacy can be seen in cooking, as its popularity continues to spread in the eight cardinal directions. So don’t underestimate how star anise transforms our food; it’s time to admit that it’s really the hidden star of the kitchen.

(The authors are travel/food writers and culinary consultants “loosely based” in Bengaluru. They run a travel/media outfit customising solutions for the hospitality industry, have authored guides and coffee table books, set up an award-winning restaurant and feature as ‘Dude aur Deewani’ in a new food-based digital infotainment show. Follow their adventures on Instagram: @red_scarab or their Facebook page Red Scarab.)