The walled wonders of Cairo

Garima Verma takes a walk through one of the oldest Islamic cities in the world, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, where history pre-dates the current era.

Once the dwarfing existence has been fully realised and enthralled by the sole surviving of the seven ancient wonders at Giza — the Sphinx and the pyramids, an audience with Cairo’s later history is affirming. The sheer evidence of the rise and fall of empires, the mutual love for Amitabh Bachchan and bargaining, and a rhythm engulfing all the chaos seem familiar.

The remnants of a Byzantine fortress in its own Babylon belie the structure’s age. Standing quietly in the central lane of Coptic Cairo, many easily miss it on their way to the Hanging Church or Abu Serga.

Built around 30 BC, the fortress best witnessed the change of guard. For, it had started taking shape with the arrival of Julius Caesar Augustus, who ended the Ptolemaic or Greek rule; the line ending with Cleopatra VII. Before that, the foundation of the Ptolemaic Kingdom by a victorious Alexander III’s general, Ptolemy I Soter, had ended the Pharaonic dynasty.

The initial resting spot

Within the citadel’s erstwhile walls is where the Holy Family — Joseph, Mary, and infant Jesus — is said to have lived after their flight into Egypt to save Jesus from being persecuted by the king of Jerusalem, Herod. Just a few steps away from the fortress is an old slender lane amid high walls full of books on both sides and shops full of wares. In it is the Cavern Church of Saints Sergius and Bacchus, also known as Abu Serga, said to be one of the oldest churches in Egypt — late fourth or early fifth century.

Built in Basilica style, white columns with Corinthian capitals separate the nave from the aisles. The fading wooden architraves, the roof à la Noah’s Ark, and the play of light through the twin stained-glass windows above the main sanctuary, under magnificent brick-faced walls and apse, evoke fascination. Captivation follows soon. To the left of the altar, a chapel first introduces to the well from which the Holy family drank water. A few steps below is the cave, now a crypt, where they stayed.

Home of Coptic Orthodox Pope

Not too far from Abu Serga are the most distinguishable twin bell towers of the Hanging Church or the Church of the Holy Virgin Mary. Built over a water gate of a Roman fortress, hence the Hanging Church, it is believed to date back to the third or fourth century.

The iron gates under a stone arch lead to a vertical courtyard giving the first look of its elevated façade. Twenty-nine steps later is the picturesque horizontal courtyard, seemingly inspired by Islamic inlay work and patterns. The barrel-vaulted wood-roofed interiors are the epitome of Basilica style. The 13 pillars of the marble pulpit under beautiful arches and stained-glass work represent Jesus and his disciples, one being black for Judas, and another grey for a doubting Thomas.

Hanging Church, which boasts of several apparitions of Mother Mary, became the seat of the Coptic Orthodox Pope in 1047 (till 1300) after the Arab invasion saw it being moved from Alexandria.

End of another rule

And, when the mid-seventh century saw the end of seven centuries of Roman rule at the hands of the Arabs, the Babylon fortress was there again, standing its ground for almost seven months. Thereafter, various caliphates and dynasties, like Rashidun, Ummayad, Abbasid, Tulunid, and Ikshidid, took control successively.

The 10th century saw the beginning of Fatimid rule. It not only set the stage for centuries of development of Cairo but that planning is still its nucleus.

In 970, the Al Azhar mosque was commissioned to become the centrepiece of the new Fatimid capital, the walled Cairo. The sprawling structure today is a result of additions over 1,000 years. Hence, post the entrance from the Gate of Qaytbay, the pristine white marble courtyard with numerous columns, also stands surrounded by architectural delights from the dynasties that followed — Ayyubid, Mamluk, and Ottoman. The distinctive single and double-finial-tiered balconied ornamented minarets are fine examples of Mamluk style.

The keel-shaped arches along the courtyard’s corridor give way to various madrasas and the gigantic prayer hall. The madrasa established in 988 resulted in Al Azhar growing into a university — the second oldest in the world, after the 859-founded University of Al Kairaouine in Morocco.

To the good old haggling

Across the street is the 14th-century Khan el-Khalili market — a live version of Arabian Nights. For, its skinny lanes, selling countless goods, old and new, might just be oblivious to a magic lamp lying somewhere among all those things. The tour guide has only one tip to stand a chance against the smooth-talking Cairenes of Khan el-Khalili — bargain, bargain hard! And, aren’t they the slickest ones of all? Flattery is also not beyond them; comparisons with Bollywood stars are often thrown around with effortless genuineness for Indian customers. The haggling in return is received with much enthusiasm, paving the way for a mutually acceptable deal or two.

The Egyptians have not only mastered the art of negotiation, they love it. The ensuing chit-chat, a little debate over which Amitabh Bachchan, in terms of his career phase, was the best, the trips to India many moons ago or recently, just make wandering in the maze-like lanes of Khan el-Khalili unforgettable.