Black is back, now as a summer shade

The colour, seen on international spring-summer runways, is being touted as a choice even in the warm season, writes Rashmi Rajagopal

Latest works from Bodice feature midi dresses and jumpsuits, among other ensembles in the colour.

Vaishali S’s recent collection ‘Abyss’ features signature draped silhouettes and bold cutouts in black.

An ensemble from the latest collection of Lovebirds Studio.

The latest collection by Abraham & Thakore sees an extensive use of black.

The spring-summer 2023 runways were witness to some note-worthy trends. Sequins reigned supreme at the shows of names like Halpern and Brandon Maxwell, while heart motifs were the order of the day for Victoria Beckham and Acne Studios, among others. At Versace and Burberry, it was bedroom-inspired pieces with lace detailing, corsets and hold-up stockings. But if the runways had one strong message, that could turn summer dressing on its head, it was that black is poised to be the colour of the season.

Typically reserved for fall and winter, the hue made an appearance in multiple shows. Yes, summer is associated with stark white and soothing pastel shades. But with fashion increasingly becoming about self expression, individuality and inclusivity, the rulebook stands irrelevant.

Making the cut

Chloé’s show saw fitted black maxi dresses with cutouts at the waist, and black crochet jumpsuits paired with matching blazers. For Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of Dior, inspiration stemmed from Catherine of Medici, and this was reflected in a hoop cage skirt fashioned out of black raffia lace, a black fit-and-flare dress detailed with drawstrings and a number of casually-worn corsets in the same shade. The colour was also seen in the presentations of Louis Vuitton, Dries Van Noten, Givenchy, Alexander McQueen, Roksanda and a host of others.

David Abraham, one half of designer duo Abraham & Thakore, however, doesn’t see anything unusual about leaning into black for summer. “I think that black is ideal for the season. In the Greek islands, you have women pottering around in their lovely black dresses, despite the heat. Even the Rabaris, in peak summer, wear black. But of course, it is important to look at the fabric used, the way it is designed and how it sits on the body,” says Abraham.

His label’s spring-summer collection, for instance, sees an extensive use of the colour, which is one of their signatures. The drop comprises black crepe silk saris embellished with fluorescent sequins, black tencel trousers embroidered in contrasting white silk yarn, and A-line dresses handcrafted from black cotton cambric with matching sequins in a leaf pattern, in addition to a range of blouses, co-ord sets and kurtas. “Fabrics like chiffon and organza work really well because they are airy and light. With regards to the silhouette, one needs to keep it simple and comfortable,” he explains.

Space expedition

In stark contrast to Abraham’s relaxed silhouettes, New Delhi-based Lovebirds Studio employed the colour in more fitted garments in Space In Between, their Spring Summer collection, which is described as a “conversation on art.”

Held at the Australian High Commission in New Delhi, the showcase saw the colour being paired with bright fluorescent floral and abstract prints, in addition to stripes and plain black denim accentuated with selvedge. “We gave the colour black a quintessential ‘Lovebirds’ spin by adding interesting prints and using lighter fabrics. We also colour-blocked it by pairing black with other brighter and lighter tones. Our knit garments have always been designed keeping versatility in mind — we used blacks in loose cotton knits that are light and appropriate for the heat. We also used geometric patterns in black and white,” shares Singh.

Talking about how one can make black summer appropriate, Singh says the trick is in picking the right pattern and pairing it with contrasting shades. “The best way to wear black is by adding whites and other bright tones to give it relief for summer. Our knits are made keeping the Indian summers in mind using flowy materials and relaxed silhouettes in cotton, silk crepe, and cotton silk,” he states.

A peek at Ruchika Sachdeva’s latest work reveals that the colour is key for her label, Bodice, this season. The collection features midi dresses, jumpsuits, co-ord sets, peplum tops and trousers crafted from handwoven cotton, all bearing her trademark pleated accents. “For me, black is seasonless. It never goes out of fashion,” says Ruchika.

Like Abraham, she too points out that more than the colour, one must turn their attention to the textile. “Breathable natural fabrics are the way to go. Say no to polyester. And go for minimal, simple and elegant silhouettes. Avoid garments that are overdone or body hugging,” she says.

Keep it light

Vaishali S, who recently showcased at the Paris Haute Couture week, drew parallels between the depths of the ocean and the soul for her collection, Abyss. The colours needed to reflect the concept, hence, she worked widely with black. Known for her sculptural, avant-garde and texture-heavy garments, her collection included her signature corded detailing, draped silhouettes and bold cutouts that make the clothes fall under the category of wearable art.

“I think everyone should wear what they feel comfortable in. It was not challenging at all to use the colour for this Spring-Summer because I treat all colours for what they are, and not for what they stand for,” she says, and emphasises on the versatility of handwoven fabric.

“Indian weaves are all extremely light! I often wear hand-woven Merino wool in the peak of summer. That is the beauty of Indian hand-woven fabrics. They are extremely light when needed and warm too when it gets chilly,” she states.